Israel Travel Blog

For a small country, Israel has not just a thriving film industry but a nation of cinema aficionados. Indeed, even in the era of home streaming and Netflix, you’ll find movie theatres across the country packed out, both for blockbusters and small, independent films. Whether it’s a film by a local director or the latest James Bond, Israelis will be there…and this is reflected in famous Israeli movies competing internationally and winning many awards over the years.Cinematographer’s room.Photo byNoom PeerapongonUnsplashIn Israel today, the population is just under 9 million people but there are 10 film schools and seven international film festivals held each year! Even though cinema attendance has declined in the last 30 years (well, this is true of almost everywhere in the world today), film directors are still hard at work, producing works that showcase Israel across the world as a vibrant, modern nation, not without its dilemmas but constantly changing.The History of Cinema in IsraelBefore the state was established, there were many cinemas in Israel (see below), initially silent movies. Baruch Agadati established the AGA Newsreel and directed an early film called ‘This is the Land’ in 1935. Also, the children’s author Zvi Lieberman had two of his books turned into films and one of them - ‘Over the Ruins’ - is considered to be a ‘landmark’ in the history of cinema in Israel. After Israel came into being in 1948, different genres of film emerged. These included:1. Documentary / Propaganda films in Israeli cinemaThese were filmed for several purposes - not only were they informative (letting Jews around the world see how the new state of Israel was faring), but they also served as a means of persuasion i.e. encouraging Jews to emigrate, not to mention attracting donations. Two of the most important of these filmmakers were Ya’acov Ben-Dov and Lazar Dunner. The latter was responsible for the short color film entitled ‘A Day in Degania’, showcasing the first established kibbutz in the country, in the Galilee. In 1953, the Israeli Public Information Administration was established and subsequently produced many propaganda films - they dealt with current affairs, news to do with agriculture and health. These films gave foreigners a glimpse into Israeli Society and were a powerful tool of instruction.Сinema Sign. Photo by Samuel Regan-Asante on Unsplash2. ‘Bourekas’ films in Israeli cinemaThese ‘comic melodramas’ were popular in the 1960s and ’70s. Often real tearjerkers, they played on ethnic stereotypes of Ashkenazi (European) and Mizrahi (Sephardic-Arab world) Jews and stuck to a predictable format. In general, this would involve a canny, street-smart Mizrahi man trading insults with a conceited, cold, arrogant Ashkenazi man. Whilst highly popular, with their slapstick humor, they were also criticized for being ‘shallow’ and ‘low brow’. Today, they are no longer made but many have obtained cult status, including ‘Sallah Shabbati’ by Ephraim Kishon, ‘The Contract’ directed by Menachem Golan, and ‘Hagiga B’Snuker’ by Boaz Davidson.3. ‘New Sensitivity’ films in Israeli cinemaStyled after the new wave French movement, this genre of film was popular in Israel in the 1960s and 1970s. Promoting both artistic and aesthetic values, it was a somewhat modernist style. Films at this time included “The House on Chelouche Street” by Moses Mizrahi, “Hole in the Moon” by Uri Zohar, and “But Where Is Daniel Wax?” by Abraham Zeffer.A spectator in the cinema. Photo byKaren ZhaoonUnsplashMovie Theatres in Israel - Past to Present‘Kolnoa Eden’, Tel Aviv - The Eden cinema dates from the turn of the 20th century and was one of the earliest cinemas built in Tel Aviv. It was founded by Moshe Abarbanedl and Mordechai Wieser in 1914, even though residents of the neighborhood (Ahuzat Bayit) objected strongly.During the First World War, it was closed by the Ottoman government but reopened under the British Mandate and was a true center of social and cultural activity. It even served as a live venue in 1923, when it hosted ‘La Traviata’ performed by the Palestine Opera! It remained popular into the 1950s and 1960s but closed its doors in 1974. Mograbi Cinema, Tel Aviv - The Kolnoa Mograbi (Mograbi Cinema) was an art deco cinema that opened in 1930, in central Tel Aviv. For years it was, arguably, the city’s most famous cinema and during holidays people often gathered in front of it - indeed, after the 1948 partition and establishment of the State of Israel, it was one of the places where locals broke into spontaneous dancing and cheers of joy. It remained a city landmark for decades afterwards but, following a fire in 1986, it was demolished.Cafe Lorenz, Tel Aviv - In 1905, Cafe Lorenz opened to the public in Jaffa Road in the neighborhood of Neve Tzedek, with the Lorenzo family screening films there and 20 years later, the Kesem Cinema (‘Magic Cinema’) was housed there for a short period. Turned on projector.Photo byJeremy YaponUnsplashEsther Cinema, Tel Aviv - Built in 1930, it opened as the ‘Dizengoff Square’ cinema (because of its location but the following year was renamed ‘the Esther Cinema’. Built in the Bauhaus style of architecture (popular in Israel in the 1930s, because of the number of German Jewish architects who had arrived in the city), it was commissioned by Esther and Moses Nathaniel. Very modern for its day, it had seating for 1000 people, air conditioning and a cafe. Soon, it became a social and cultural hub, holding lectures and political meetings too. What makes this building special even today is that it was restored and renovated, made into a boutique hotel called ’Cinema’. Great care was taken to keep the exterior in keeping with the 1930s and inside you can see the original staircase, chandeliers, and a display of projectors and movie posters. It is fair to say that, today, this building is one of the most striking in Tel Aviv.Alhambra Cinema, Jaffa - Located on Jerusalem Boulevard in Jaffa, and designed in Art Deco style by Elias Al-Mor, this cinema opened in 1937 and was named after the Alhambra Palace in Granada, Spain. Owned by Palestinians, it was used as a cultural institution as well as a cinema, then as a theatre in the 1960s. After being abandoned for a long time, it was restored in 2010 and now is home to the Scientology Centre. People watching a movie in a movie theatre. Photo byKrists LuhaersonUnsplashCinema International, Jerusalem - This silent movie theatre opened in Jerusalem on Jaffa Road in 1912. Housed in Feingold House, it screened silent feature films but with no regular showings - it all depended on how many tickets were sold! Smadar, Cinema Jerusalem -Situated in Jerusalem, in the German Colony, this cinema opened for commercial screenings in 1935 and was soon known as the ‘Orient.’ Jewish management took it over (since originally it had been a German-owned business) and after 1948 it was purchased by four young soldiers, three of whom were later bought out by the fourth, a movie lover called Arye Chechik. It became a real family business - he sold tickets and worked the projector, whilst his wife sold sweets at a nearby stand!The Armon, Haifa -Moshe Greidinger opened this cinema in 1935 - a building that could seat 1,800 and in art-deco style. Soon it became the hub of Haifa’s entertainment scene, being used not just as a movie theatre but also as a music venue for the Israeli Opera and Israeli Philharmonic.Clapboard plays an important role in the video production process. Photo byJakob OwensonUnsplashMovie Theatres in Israel TodayToday, many of the small, independent cinemas in Israel have closed down, since they cannot compete financially with the big multiplexes, in the form of ‘Cinema City’ and ‘Yes Planet’. However, that does not mean that there is no demand for independent productions - on the contrary, Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, and Haifa are all popular, and not just on a day-to-day basis but for the film festivals they hold.Cinematheque Tel AvivOpened in the spring of 1973, and located within walking distance of the historic part of the city, Tel Aviv Cinematheque and movie archive boasts five screening halls. It shows all kinds of films, both Israeli and international, and hosts a number of festivals. In the fall of 2011, its ‘sister’ the Israeli Cinema Centre opened next door to it. This wing is much larger than the original and boasts three screens, a library, and a restaurant. Cinematheque JerusalemThe Jerusalem Cinematheque was opened in 1981, the brainchild of George Ostrovsky, Lia van Leer and the then-mayor of the city, Teddy Kollek. Situated at the Valley of Hinnom (on Hebron Road), it boasts spectacular views of the Old City. With four screening halls and a growing film archive, the Cinematheque is a real treasure for all movie fans. Screening a mixture of commercial, Israeli, and international films (as well as gems from its archives) it regards itself as a leading platform for the promotion of local cinema. Its Film Archive preserves and showcases films from the beginning of Israeli cinemauntil modern times and is an exciting venue both for established and up-and-coming film directors. People at the movie theatre. Photo byErik WitsoeonUnsplashCinematheque HaifaThe Haifa Cinematheque was also established by Lia Van Leer and her husband Wim, but long before its Jerusalem counterpart - actually in the early 1950s. Today it offers visitors the choice of 40 plus films each month, screened in two different theatres. These include old and new films, restored prints, and retrospectives.Recognized Israeli Film DirectorsThere have always been classic Israeli films that are loved by its people, but until the last 20 or so years, they didn’t really break onto the world scene. All that has changed now and more and more tales of life in Israel, focusing both on the secular and religious worlds, as well as politics, music, and love, are ending up on the big screen. Ari Folman was nominated for an Oscar in his groundbreaking ‘Waltz with Bashir’, following the story of an Israeli soldier who battles mental health issues after fighting in the first Lebanon war. Eytan Fox became famous after his film ‘Song of the Siren’ (in 1994) was released, taking a comic look at an Israeli woman’s convoluted love life in the midst of the Gulf War. In 2002, ‘Yossi and Jagger’ was released, a touching portrayal of two men in love, whilst in the midst of their army service. And in 2006, ‘The Bubble’ aired a very personal film for Fox who, openly gay, wanted to deal with the subject of coming out of the closet.‘Footnote’ by Joseph Cedar, was released in 2001, and later won the ‘Best Screenplay Award’ at Cannes. Exploring the troubled relationship between a father and son who both work at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem, it is both touching and poignant. Black and silver cameras with film reels. Photo by昔日少年寻不见onUnsplashCinema Festivals in IsraelIsrael holds a number of film festivals each year, which are well-attended. And because of its fascinating history and people, there’s a story to be had on every street corner, which means there are plenty of Israeli directors at the screenings too. The oldest of these festivals is the one held in Haifa, which began in 1983 and is held every year around Sukkot time (between September and October). Not only are there all kinds of screenings, but each night there is a program of cultural events, which includes outdoor film screenings, live music, and an artists’ market close by.Hot on the heels of Haifa is the Jerusalem International Film Festival (JIFF) which was first held in 1984. Ever since, each July, it screens between 150 and 200 films, giving both locals and tourists the opportunity to see some of the finest films that have just been made. A cinema sign, crafted into the ironwork.Photo byNick FewingsonUnsplashNor is Tel Aviv shy in this department, especially when it comes to documentaries. Docaviv, (the Tel Aviv International Documentary Film Festival) was founded in 1998 is the largest festival in Israel, drawing audiences of up to 40,000. And there’s also TLVFest, which focuses on films related to the LGBTQ movement, supporting pluralism in one of the world’s most gay-friendly cities.Moreover, there is the Tel Aviv International Student Film Festival, which promotes young filmmakers, starting out in the industry. Each June it shows more than 200 short films from around the globe and its prizes are highly coveted. Held at the Cinematheque, events include masterclasses, exhibitions, conferences, and artist workshops. Running now since 1996, it has developed a real reputation for innovative cinema.If you are visiting Israel for one of these film festivals and would like to organize a day tour or private tour within the country, please feel free to contact us by phone or email. We are always happy to help!Cool looking movie theater popcorn bags. Photo by Corina Rainer on Unsplash

When you arrive in Israel, one of the first things that will strike you is the letters of the Hebrew alphabet! You’ll see them on storefronts, menus, banners at Ben Gurion airport, and all kinds of public transport. The letters in this alphabet (referred to by scholars as Jewish script or ‘Ktav Ashuri’) certainly can puzzle visitors (luckily for them, the Roman script is widespread too!)A historic Old Testament scroll rescued from the city of Lodz in Poland.Photo byMick HauptonUnsplashEarly Hebrew was the alphabet used by Jews before the 6th century (basically the Babylonian Exile) and existed in local variants. For sure, it developed over time but essentially it had - and still does - 22 letters, but only with consonants represented.The letters are written in block form. Just as interestingly for the visitor, it was - and is still - written from right to left. And it’s not the only language in Israel you’ll see written this way either - Arabic (although written in cursive, not block letters) and Yiddish are also written right to left.As we all know, language is an incredibly powerful tool in society - it helps people communicate with each other, build relationships, and also enables them to promote their culture. Language lets people share common ideas, express feelings and desires, and, in turn, forges all kinds of ties between people. And never more so than in Israel which was in the interesting position of only having revived Hebrew (in its modern form) in the last 150 years!Today, we’ll be looking at language in Israel - how linguistic scholars and Zionists alike promoted a Hebrew revival and how this Hebrew revival impacted Yiddish speakers (many of whom had come to Palestine/Israel from Eastern Europe and knew nothing of Hebrew, save for what they could read in the Bible). We’ll also take a look at how Yiddish is still used in small religious communities in Jerusalem and how it’s even making a bit of a comeback amongst the young and secular in wider Israel. Let’s go! Lamir Geyen! ! בוא נלךA wall at Netiv HaAsara facing the Gaza border reads the words “Path to Peace” in Hebrew, Arabic, and English. Photo byCole KeisteronUnsplashHebrew From Ancient Times until the 19th CenturyHistorically, ‘square’ (block) Hebrew was established in the land of Israel, some time between the ½ BCE and slowly developed into what is now the modern Hebrew alphabet, in the next thousand years. By 10 CE, classical Hebrew existed in three clear formats - formal (used in books), rabbinical (used by medieval Jewish scholars), and local scripts.So actually, Hebrew had roots that dated back a long time, which makes the story of it being brought back to life even more extraordinary. As mentioned earlier, 150 years ago Hebrew was not a spoken language - it was effectively dormant and used simply for prayer. Only because of Eliezer Ben Yehuda - an individual of exceptional vision - was it brought back from life. How did he do it?A Hebrew RevivalBen Yehuda was born in Lithuania and arrived in Israel (then Palestine) in 1881. Settling in Jerusalem, he heard many languages around him - Russian, Polish, Arabic, German - and soon he took the view that these new arrivals needed a common tongue to unite them. As a Jewish nationalist. Ben Yehuda believed both in the return of Jews to their historical homeland (the Land of Israel) and a ‘national tongue’. To make the latter challenge a reality, he decided to transform ancient Hebrew - used just for prayer for thousands of years - into a modern language.Ben Yehuda campaigned vociferously for Hebrew to be made the official language of instruction in schools and set to work expanding the existing Hebrew vocabulary. He created more than 300 new words (including ‘toy’, ‘car’, ‘ice cream’, and ‘newspaper’). He also dedicated himself to compiling the first modern Hebrew dictionary and later edited the first Hebrew-language daily newspaper. On a personal note, Ben Yehuda was a stickler for discipline and, in schools today, every Israeli child hears the story of how he only spoke Hebrew to his own children (even when they wept). In fact, his son Ben Tzion was the first child in modern times to grow up using this language as his mother tongue because of his father’s sheer determination.Mia's Mosaics "We Were All Once Refugees". A collaboration with Kuchinate, a Women's African Refugee Collective, Tel Aviv. Photo byAntoine MerouronUnsplashHebrew as the national language of IsraelThanks to Ben Yehuda’s sterling efforts, more and more communities of Jews who had arrived in the First Aliyah (1881-1903) and the Second Aliyah (1904-1914) established Hebrew schools in their surroundings. As a result, by 1922 there were enough Jewish pioneers speaking Hebrew in their daily lives that the British Mandate rulers recognized it as the official language of Jews in Palestine. Since then, modern Hebrew has developed a lexicon of more than 75,000 words including almost 2,500 deliberately designed Hebrew alternatives for foreign words. Whilst Ben Yehuda himself never lived to see the creation of the State of Israel, this idea of the Jews speaking their own language in their own land came to pass. Arguably, this made him one of the most successful language revivalists of all time as well as one of the most prominent historical figures in Israel! Today, modern Hebrew (or ‘Ivrit’ as it’s called) is the standard form of the Hebrew language spoken in Israel, and every new immigrant who arrives is offered, courtesy of the government, a free ‘ulpan’ which is a language instruction program, teaching them the basics.Road sign in Haifa in Hebrew, Arabic, and English.Photo byLevi Meir ClancyonUnsplashSo whatis the Yiddish language?Today, in every school, restaurant, and business place in Israel you’ll hear Hebrew spoken. But as well as the fact that it was only adopted ‘officially’ 100 years ago, there’s another reason Hebrew wasn’t widely spoken back then - it’s because Yiddish was incredibly common. Yiddish was the language of Ashkenazi Jews - Jews who hailed from Central and Eastern Europe.Written in the same alphabet as Hebrew, by the 19th century Yiddish was spoken widely in any community in the world where a Jewish population existed. The history of Yiddish is indeed a fascinating one. Scholars have traced its origins back to the 14th century when Ashkenazi Jews emerged as a community in Europe. From its birthplace, in German-speaking areas, it eventually spread to all of Eastern Europe. A fusion of High German (‘Hoch Deutsch’) vernacular and Slavic words (especially Polish and Ukrainian) it even has a historical trace of Romance language expressions in it. Yiddish is an incredibly rich language, as a result, even having what is called ‘artificial loanwords’. This actually means that the word borrowed from elsewhere and used in Yiddish doesn’t even exist in the original language. A good example is ‘tate-mame’ which means ‘parents’ in Yiddish. (And not to forget aboutYiddishe mama). In Slavic, these two words mean ‘dad’ and ‘mum’, but there’s actually no such phrase in Polish (or, indeed, any other Slavic language).As a result, many of the Jews who arrived in the Holy Land (then Palestine) spoke Yiddish as their mother tongue. They came from all walks of society - writers, politicians, business leaders, artists, social activists - and they were devoted to their language. This, of course, would become problematic for them as time passed, since they were also Zionists, therefore felt obliged to promote the Hebrew language in its new, modern format.Orthodox Jews in Jerusalem.Photo byArno SmitonUnsplashHebrew vs YiddishBetween the first aliyah and the creation of the State of Israel, therefore, Yiddish was spoken widely, although as time passed, modern Hebrew became predominant. However, Yiddish culture was alive and kicking in all kinds of forms - on the stage, in music venues, and in European-style cafes on Tel Aviv’s trendy Dizengoff street.So what changed this? Essentially, a huge cultural and ideological shift in Israel in the 1940s and 1950s. after the unspeakable horrors of the Holocaust. After millions of Jews had been murdered in the camps, the remaining survivors began looking for new homes. Some went to North America, others to Europe, and some even to Australia but many, of course, set sail for Israel.The then-Prime Minister, David Ben Gurion, had made a decision not to turn away a single refugee, in his quest to bring Jews from across the globe to this new homeland. But not, as Ben Yehuda had also said, to be a collection of different peoples - to forge a new country and a new national identity. This didn’t just mean having Hebrew as the official language of the state, it meant actively encouraging Yiddish speakers to abandon their ‘mamaloshen’ (mother tongue).Ben Gurion’s vision (and that of many of his contemporaries) was to create a new identity for the Jews - strong, proud, and ideologically committed. He encouraged immigrants from Eastern Europe to forget the ‘shtetls’ (villages) where they had been raised, and ‘shake off’ everything to do with their old lives. Candles from Safed with inscriptions in Hebrew, Israel. Photo byJoshua SukoffonUnsplashIt was their obligation - he argued - as citizens of this young nation - to be pioneers and part of that duty was to abandon the culture of the diaspora. And thus the ‘Sabra’ was born - the ‘new’ Israeli who was resilient, the Jew who would fight back against tyranny (the implication being that many Jews in Eastern Europe had gone to their deaths ‘like lambs to the slaughter’).As a result, Yiddish didn’t have an easy time in the 1950s, in the state of Israel. Many of the state’s population spoke it as their mother tongue but were embarrassed and ashamed to speak it publicly. Even worse, legislation was passed, protecting Hebrew from ‘competitor’ languages, particularly Yiddish, forbidding theatre productions to be performed and newspapers written in other languages. Additionally, diplomats and anyone else who represented Israel abroad actually had to Hebraize their names.Many children of Holocaust survivors also recount their ‘shame’ at having parents who spoke Yiddish together, instead of Hebrew. The awful truth was that, in the 1950s, the enormity of the Holocaust was not really understood, and - as a result - many of the refugees were ‘blamed’ for not fighting back against the Nazis. A lack of consciousness about this dark period meant that children born in Israel often ‘rejected’ their parents (and as some admit, did not want to have anything to do with their ‘old world’ language and customs). As a result of this dilemma, and the growth of modern Hebrew, today in Israel only about 3% of the population speak Yiddish on a day-to-day basis. So who are they?View of the Jewish Cemetery on the Mount of Olives. Photo byRiaonUnsplashYiddish in the Haredi Ashkenazi World in IsraelWithin Jerusalem is a special neighborhood, named ‘Mea Shearim’ which in Hebrew means ‘one hundred gates’ or ‘a hundredfold’. One of the oldest of the city’s neighborhoods, the people who live there are of Haredi background - that is Ultra-Orthodox Jews. Their day-to-day language of communication is Yiddish. The residents only use Hebrew for religious studies and prayer at synagogue, since they believe Hebrew is a sacred language that should only be used for communicating with God.For any visitor to this quarter of Jerusalem, it may almost seem as if they have stepped back in time, into a world of yesteryear. Men wear black frock coats and large black hats. Women are always dressed modestly - no skirts above the knee or plunging necklines and blouses that cover the elbows. They also cover their hair, either with headscarves or wigs.For anyone visiting this neighborhood, they will hear Yiddish on every street corner. They will also see it written in the form of ‘Pashkvils’ which are street posters, used both for political manifests and obituaries. Whilst Mea Shearim is open to all, there are large signs at its entrance (both in Hebrew and English) reminding people to behave respectfully by dressing modestly and, on Shabbat, not using their cellphones or taking photographs.The Wailing Wall in Jerusalem's Old City, Israel.Photo byIvan LouisonUnsplashPreserving Yiddish Culture in Israel TodayBut what of Yiddish in the rest of Israel? Well, there is, thank goodness, a more ‘happy’ side to this story - after years of it being sidelined (and ‘downgraded’) in Israeli society, there has been a resurgence in interest in the Yiddish language and culture. Today, you can attend lectures in cities across the country, given about famous writers (such as Isaac Bashevis Singer, who wrote ‘The Magician of Lublin’ and Shalom Aleichem, who penned ‘Tevye the Dairyman’).There is a Yiddish theatre in Tel Aviv called ‘Yiddishspiel’ which was inaugurated in 1987, as a result of the campaigning of the then Mayor, Shlomo Lahat. Its mission is to restore this wonderful language (which had almost disappeared from Israel) to the public - who can learn about its charm and glory, and the extraordinarily rich culture that lay behind it. Today, it is flourishing and puts on several productions a year, which are viewed by Israelis and tourists of all ages.Furthermore, many Israelis (especially children and grandchildren of Holocaust survivors) have now signed up for Yiddish classes. Tel Aviv University has begun hosting Yiddish summer camps and the Hebrew University now offers classes for credit. Every year, in Israel, the National Authority for Yiddish Culture now gives out prizes to prominent figures in the fields of arts and literature who contribute significantly to the Yiddish language and culture in Israel.So, what are you waiting for? Visit Israel and learn more about these two interesting languages for yourself!People in Tel Aviv cafe, Israel. Photo byYaroslav LutskyonUnsplash

Abu Gosh is an Arab-Israeli town located about 10 km west of Jerusalem in the Judean Hills. It is named after one of the most prominent clans inhabiting the town. Abu Gosh is known for its picturesque scenery, authentic local cuisine, ancient churches, and welcoming community. It is also home to the second-largest mosque in Israel. Flowers in Benedectine Abbey in Abu Gosh, Israel. Photo by Pauline on UnsplashAbu Gosh hosts a biannual music festival held during the Jewish holidays of Shavuot (Pentecost) and Sukkot (Festival of the Tabernacles). Most of Abu Gosh’s 7,000 residents are Muslims but there are also several Christian and Jewish families. History of Abu GoshThe majority of Abu Gosh residents come from four clans that can trace their roots back to the Chechen and Ingush tribes of the Caucasus Mountains. The ancestors of Abu Gosh residents were enlisted by the Ottoman army to join the fight for the Holy Land in the 1500s. They were known for their price, wealth, courage, and strength. Once the Ottomans had conquered Palestine, many of the Chechen and Ingush soldiers remained. They settled in the Abu Gosh area, and for hundreds of years, they controlled the pilgrimage route between Jaffa and Jerusalem. Sultan Selim gave them permission to charge travelers a tax or fee for safe passage along this route.Hummus made Abu Gosh famous.Photo byLudovic AviceonUnsplashHighlights of Abu GoshThe New Mosque - Construction of the New Mosque in Abu Gosh was funded by President Akhmad Kadyrov of Chechnya, in honor of the Chechen people of Abu Gosh. It was completed in 2014 and is the second-largest mosque in Israel after the Al-Aqsa Mosque on Temple Mount. The magnificent mosque has four tall minarets, a golden dome, and combines Middle Eastern and Caucasus architectural styles.Benedictine Monastery of St. Mary and the Church of the Resurrection - This monastery complex was built by Crusaders in 1141 and has beautiful gardens, a church, and a guesthouse. The monastery’s Church of the Resurrection has walls adorned with outstanding medieval frescoes. In the church crypt is the spring that attracted settlers to Abu Gosh thousands of years ago. The monastery is still active, and visitors can listen to Gregorian prayer chants sung throughout the day. Visitors can buy ceramics and candles made by monks and nuns. Abu Gosh is believed to be the site of Emmaus, a place mentioned in Luke 24. Two disciples were traveling the road from Jerusalem to Emmaus when they met and ate with a stranger who was the resurrected Christ.Our Lady of the Ark of the Covenant Church - The second church in Abu Gosh is known for a statue depicting Mary carrying baby Jesus. The statue can be seen from almost anywhere in Abu Gosh. Below the sculpture of Mary is a base resembling the Ark of the Covenant. Abu Gosh is identified with the biblical site of Kiryat Ye’arim. The Book of Exodus tells how the Ark of the Covenant (an ornate golden chest containing the original stone tablets of the 10 commandments) was kept at Kiryat Ye’arim before being taken to Jerusalem by King David. Our Lady of the Ark of the Covenant was built in 1924 on the ruins of a Byzantine church. Part of the original Byzantine mosaic floor can still be seen.Local Cuisine in Abu GoshNo one comes to Abu Gosh without trying some of the excellent local cuisine. The main road is lined with restaurants serving authentic Middle Eastern dishes. Abu Gosh hummus is particularly famous.Abu Gosh is a model of coexistence. Its multicultural community welcomes international visitors and Israelis who particularly like to come here to enjoy the food. Abu Gosh is a unique destination with much to discover and the residents welcome everyone with open arms.If you are interested in visiting Abu Gosh, join one of our private tours.

Today we’re taking a closer look at Ashdod, Israel’s sixth-largest city, which sits on the Mediterranean and - whilst not one of the country’s obvious tourist attractions - has plenty to offer the visitor. Ashdod is the largest port in the county - indeed, it accounts for 60% of the country’s imports.Winter day in Ashdod, Israel.Photo byMax SimonovonUnsplashWhere is Ashdod?Ashdod is located on the Mediterranean coast, in the southern district of the country, just 32 kilometers south of Tel Aviv and 20 km north of Ashkelon. With a population of around 221,000, whilst it does not have any world-class museums or galleries, it can offer the visitor a large marina with restaurants and cafes, green open spaces in which to walk, museums and archaeological attractions, and - perhaps best of all - long stretches of pristine Israeli beaches.Ashdod in the BibleAshdod is a biblical name meaning ‘inclination',’ diffusion’ or ‘theft’. It is mentioned thirteen different times in the Hebrew Bible, which tells of it being a member of the Philistine pentapolis (the ‘five cities’). According to the Book of Joshua, in the Hebrew Bible, it was also part of the tribe of Judah. In the first Book of Samuel, Ashdod is once again mentioned as being among the principal Philistine cities. Indeed, after they captured the Ark of the covenant from the Israelites, the Philistines took it to Ashdod and set it down in the temple of Dagon. (The God ‘Dagon’ was the legendary inventor of the plow).Geography and Climate of AshdodAshdod lies on Israel’s coastal plain, next to the sea, and is a very flat city. It has a typical Mediterranean climate - because it is on the coast, its summers are long, hot, and very sticky. In contrast, winters are cool (with not too much rain) and many clear days. Temperatures in the summer can soar to well over 35 degrees and in the winter (January being the coldest month) fall to 12 degrees at night.Ashdod bedroom suburb. Photo byOleksandr KovalonUnsplashAshdod in Ancient TimesThe first documented urban settlement at Ashdod dates back to the Canaanite culture of the 17th century BCE. In 8 CE, the city fell to King Uzziah but was then captured by Assyria. In Hellenistic times, the city was known as Azotus, in Byzantine times it was under the control of Bishops. The ancient Ashdod, underneath the mound (‘tel’) had outports as Ashdod Yam and a Crusader castle. By the 1960s and 1970s, archaeologists from Israel and the USA had excavated remains in Ashdod dating back to the Canaanite period, as mentioned above.Ashdod TodayModern Ashdod was founded in 1956, along the Lakhish stream estuary, It was always intended to be a port city, because of its position on the Mediterranean and the fact that it rests on flat land, at a strategic economic crossroads. Today, it exports the majority of Israel’s citrus fruits as well as diamonds (and other precious stones), chemical products, and computer equipment. Ashdod is also a port at which many cruise ships from around Europe dock. Because it is so close to both Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, booking acruise excursion is an excellent way to spend a day in Israel. Whether you want to head to Israel’s capital, wander in the Old City, explore historical sites and places of worship, or travel to Tel Aviv and enjoy some Bauhaus architecture, boutique shopping, or a trip to Jaffa’s famous port and flea market, a private ship-to-shore tour from Ashdod port is a perfect way to manage it.The Ashdod Festival of the Nations and Their Tastes, Israel. Photo credit: © Oksana MatsAttractions in AshdodAshdod is not a particularly large city and it’s easy to walk around, hail a cab, or use the public transport system. Here are a few of the attractions we’d recommend you seek out if you’re in the city:1. The Marina - the Ashdod Marina is close to the city center and close to the ‘beach zone’ of the city. Known as the ‘Blue Marina’ its mooring basin is in the shape of a circle, with the dock stretching out like an arm. The dock itself looks like a menorah (a Jewish seven-branched candelabra) with three ‘finger docks’ to each side. It has berths that can accommodate up to 550 yachts and small boats and is a popular place to stroll. There are many restaurants and cafes in the neighborhood and the area is regenerating constantly. It is an excellent place to have a fish lunch or dinner, and if you are keen on water sports, in Ashdod there are schools for diving, surfing, and sailing dotted around the area.2. Ashdod Yam Park - this 50-acre flagship project is a beautiful place to walk and makes for some very family-friendly outdoor fun. They have a carp pond and an excellent playground, and there’s even a huge skate park, for those who love their boards! This is a lovely park to walk in on summer evenings, especially as the sun goes down.3. Ashdod Museum of Art - located close to the city center, this museum has been open for 15 years now and places its focus on issues that relate to the nature and identity of Ashdod. Many of the exhibitions put on in the last few years have looked in-depth at contemporary Israeli culture and feature artworks both by modern and veteran artists, both Israeli and from across the globe. A ship dragged anchor at Ashdod, Israel. Photo by Felix Tchverkin on Unsplash 4. Lachish River Park - this 650-acre park t stretches along the southern bank of Nahal Lachish River, which is the green lung of Ashdod. You can stroll along the river that divides the city and beaches from the port - lookout for kingfishers! Inside the mini zoo, halfway up on the right, you can see ostriches, goats, zebras, and turtles. In the summer, children will love the trampolines, bumper cars, and inflatable cars, as well as a play area and pool. 5. Museum of Philistine Culture - the Corinne Mamane Museum of Philistine Culture is the only archeology museum in Israel (and, indeed, the world) dedicated solely to the Philistine culture, ancient culture in the Canaanite cities, Ashdod being one of them. It’s fairly small, and can be explored in about 2 hours - there are interactive stations to encourage children to get excited and one actually includes getting dressed up in ancient costumes! Others have videos and one has an interactive display of Samson pulling down some pillars! Admission is 30 NIS.6. The Eye of the Sun - this modern sculpture sits in a large circle at the end of Ashdod’s promenade. Designed by Motti Mizrachi, it changes color at night. 7. Bet Guvrin-Maresha National Park - not far from Ashdod, this is a huge archaeological complex that contains the remains of two ancient cities. It contains the Maresha caves that date back 2,000 years, to the time of Bar Kochba, as well as a reconstructed ancient wine and olive press and the northern complex. The northern complex boasts significant remains from the Roman period (both a bathhouse and impressive amphitheater), as well as the remains of a Crusader fortress with a church, dining room, workshops, and underground vaults. The caves are fascinating and there are many of them but are probably not suitable for children under the age of 5.Beit Guvrin Archaeological Park. Photo credit: © Manu Grinspan. Published with permission of the Israel Nature and Parks AuthorityMusic, Art, and Culture in AshdodIf you’re in Ashdod, try and grab a ticket for a performance by the Israeli Andalusian Orchestra in Ashdod - founded in 1994, this orchestra endeavors to act as a cultural bridge between Israel and the Arab world. It performs pieces that were created during the Golden Age of Jewish Culture in Spain.Ashdod also has its own Symphony Orchestra and holds dance festivals from time to time. Ashdod’s Méditerranée Festival, held annually, showcases the best artists from Israel and well-known guests from the Mediterranean countries. During the festival days various shows are held, film screenings, and culinary events from the best Mediterranean cuisine. The festival’s events are held at various sites across the city.Getting to Ashdod from Tel AvivAshdod is well connected with Tel Aviv, the bustling economic center of Israel, with its hipster bars, innovative food scene, antique markets, and non-stop nightlife. There are a few ways you can travel between the two cities, including:1. Two buses that will take you from Ashdod to Tel Aviv. The first is bus number 320, which leaves Ashdod Central Bus Station every 20-30 minutes and takes approximately 50 minutes, dropping you at the Tel Aviv Central Bus Station (Levinsky) in the south of the city. The second bus is number 626, which leaves from Ashdod al Halom and takes approximately one hour, dropping you at the Savidor bus station (on Arlozorov Street), in the north of the city. You can buy a ticket online beforehand online, use a green Rav Kav card (with preloaded credit) or simply pay the bus driver with cash when you board. A one-way ticket would cost around 14 NIS.Israeli train.Photo byJohn AdeoyeonUnsplash2. Train - these run hourly from Ashdod to Tel Aviv and the fastest will take 45 minutes. You leave from Ashdod al Halom and alight at one of Tel Aviv’s three railway stations - HaHaganah, HaShalom, or Savidor. A one-way ticket should cost around 18 NIS.3. You can hire a car.Car rental in Israel is relatively simple and all you need is your international driving license and a credit card - there are many companies that can help you including Eldan, Shlomo Sixt, and Budget.The cost is relatively cheap (compared to other countries in Europe or the US), all of the representatives speak good English and if you shop around online, a day or two before, you may be able to pick up a real bargain. 4. Taxi - take a taxi or even book a private transfer if you wish to make the trip by road. Taxis in Israel can be pre-booked with a hotel concierge or with the Gett app. It is better to agree on a price beforehand for this kind of trip, so there are no nasty surprises involved at the end of the ride. For private transfers, please contact us at Bein Harim - we will be delighted to arrange this service for you.Jaffa port, Israel. Photo byFaruk KaymakonUnsplashGetting from Ashdod to JerusalemJerusalem is also within easy reach of Ashdod. Bus number 448 leaves Ashdod Central Station regularly (every 30 minutes or so) and the journey takes approximately 1 hour and 10 minutes. You will arrive at the Jerusalem Central Bus Station, which sits directly on Jaffa Road, and from there you can easily continue onto all of the major attractions, including the Old City, using the Jerusalem light railway. A one-way ticket from Ashdod to Jerusalem should cost around 20 NIS and - again - you can use a Rav Kav card or simply pay the driver in cash when you board.It is possible to travel between Ashdod and Jerusalem by train, but not directly. You will have to change in Tel Aviv, at HaHaganah station, and then continue on and the journey time will be around 1 hour 40 minutes. Both stations are modern and have English signs (and electronic self-service machines, with a variety of instructional languages) and elevators, should you have heavy luggage! A one-way ticket from Ashdod to Jerusalem should cost around 25 NIS.Driving between the two cities, either using a hire car, a taxi, or a private transfer, should take you around just over one hour, using Route 1, providing there is no traffic.The Wailing Wall, Jerusalem. Photo byThomas VogelonUnsplash

One of the many incredible things about Israel is its diversity - and not just in landscapes! A first-time visitor to the Holy Land will, most likely, be amazed at how many different kinds of people they see and talk to, whether it’s on the streets of large cities like Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, in tiny villages in the Galilee or in the desert areas of the south.Riding Through The Desert, Israel.Photo byRobert ByeonUnsplashBedouin in Israel: FactsAnd if you ask someone “What kind of people make up Israel’s population?” it’s quite likely that they will respond with a number of answers. Most people know that Israel is a country formed in 1948, to represent Jews, and they also know that the land is home to a fair number of Arabs (both Muslim and Christian). But what about other, smaller, minority groups such as the Druze, the Bedouin and the Bahai?Today we’re going to be taking a look at the Bedouin - a nomadic tribe of people who have lived in Israel’s Negev desert for hundreds of years - and explore their history, their culture and lifestyle and how they feel about their lives in Israel today. Who are the Negev Bedouin?The Bedouins in Israel are a small community of nomads, who live in Israel’s Negev Desert, and are part of Israel’s Arab Palestinian minority. The number of Bedouin in Israel today is estimated to be around 200,000-250,000, which accounts for approximately 3% of Israel’s total population. However, in the Negev desert (which is sparsely populated) they actually account for one in four residents. The Bedouin tribes in Israel can be divided into three different groups, depending on their origins. The first are descendants of ancient Arabian nomads, the second hail from certain Bedouin tribes in the Sinai and the third are Palestinians who came from more cultivated areas.Rahat, the cultural capital of Bedouin in the State of Israel. Photo byLevi Meir ClancyonUnsplashHistory of the Bedouin in Israel.From the Spice Route to 1948The majority of the Negev Bedouin can trace their history back to the Hejaz region, located in the north of the Arabian peninsula (in modern terms, between Saudi Arabia and the Sinai area). Between the 14th and 18th centuries they began migrating to the Holy Land - of course, when you consider the history of ancient Israel, this means they are relatively new arrivals! They travelled along the IncenseRoute and, in fact, many became wealthy because of their ability to trade luxurious goods. Historically, the Bedouin were (and still are) nomadic or semi-nomadic tribes. They would wander from place to place, in search of agricultural land where their sheep and goats could be put out to pasture, and after they left an area, it would replenish itself naturally. Since they were highly dependent on water, they moved places according to the climate.In the 19th and early 20th centuries, neither the Ottoman rulers nor the British Mandate had any real interest in the desert part of the country, which meant that Bedouin - for the most part - were free to live and act as they chose. Of course, this all changed after the War of Independence (leading to the creation of the State of Israel, in 1948). After Egypt’s soldiers invaded Israel, the Negev soon resembled a terrible background and, soon after, around 90,000 Bedouin fled to Egypt and Jordan. By the end of the war, only 11,000 remained!Mohamed, part of the Israeli Bedouin community in the Negev. Photo byLevi Meir ClancyonUnsplashBedouin History from 1948 onwardsThose in positions of power in the newly created state quickly realised that much of Israel’s landmass (actually, 60% of it) was desert. Not surprisingly, they regarded the Negev desert as an area where development and growth could take place and, in their haste to settle the land, did not give sufficient thought to the Bedouins already there. Today, many historians argue that this policy has continued, insofar that every Israeli government since 1948 has ignored Bedouin claims to the land in their haste to develop it for their own purposes. (To read more about this subject, take a look at ‘Land Ownership’ below)Where Do Israeli Bedouin Live?Israeli Bedouin live in small villages and ‘townships’ in the southern Negev desert. Essentially, this is a ‘triangle’ located between the outskirts of Beersheba, Israel’s gateway city to the south, and the small cities of Dimona and Arad. You can also see Bedouin walking with their animals, en route from Jerusalem to the Dead Sea.Fun fact: it was actually a Bedouin shepherd boy who discovered the Dead Sea Scrollsafter one of his sheep became lost from the flock and he went into the Qumran Caves to look for it. The result? One of the great archaeological discoveries of the 20th century (the Dead Sea Scrolls can be seen today, at the Israel Museum in Jerusalem, where they are housed in a building that has been described as an ‘architectural masterpiece.’A camel rests between trips, Negev Desert.Photo byCole KeisteronUnsplashBedouin Villages in IsraelAfter the War of Independence, few Bedouin remained in the Negev but as the years passed, they slowly began to return. By 1954, about 11,0000 were recognised by Israel as citizens and between 1968 and 1989, Israel built seven townships for them in the northeast of the Negev. Eventually, it is estimated that about 60% of them relocated to these towns, especially to the largest - Rahat. Indeed, by 1984, the population of the town had grown sufficiently to be recognised as a city by Israel, which means today that it is the largest Bedouin city in the world. The other six townships in the Negev in which Bedouins in Israel live today are Tel as-Sabi (Tel Sheva). Ar-arat an-Naqab (Ar’ara BaNegev), Lakiya, Hura, Shaqib al Salam (Segev Shalom) and Kuseife (Kseife). Having a Bedouin Experience When In IsraelIf you’re travelling in Israel, it’s actually possible to see, first-hand, how this nomadic tribe lives, by taking a day tour (or even, sometimes, an overnight tour) to one of the many Bedouin villages in the Negev desert. The experience itself many report as being extraordinary - and one thing for which the Bedouins are well-known in Israel is their hospitality.There is no one typical trip but almost every ‘Bedouin Experience’ will contain certain components, including food, hiking (or trekking with camels) and an overnight stay. Many trips include travel to off-the-beaten-track locations, up in the Judean Hills, or in arid parts of the Negev. Negev tour, rocky desert on horseback, Israel.Photo byGreta Schölderle MølleronUnsplashIt’s possible, often, to take jeep tours (similar toJudaean Desert Safari Private Tour), partake in the age-old ‘coffee ceremony’ (after which you can try pita that’s just come straight from the fire), visit ‘off the grid’ villages and take night hikes under the starry skies. Bedouin lunches and dinners are usually served in a ‘khan’ which is a large Bedouin tent. Meals often take the form of feasts - visitors sit on traditional mats (not tables) and food is served on platters that serve many people. A typical dinner could include homemade pita, salads, tahini and hummus and eggplant, followed by ‘Maklube’, a traditional Arab-style dish. Maklube is a traditional one-pot dish, filled with rice, roasted vegetables and meat, which is flipped upside down when served (‘maklube’ means ‘upside down’ in Arabic!) And whilst it's not common to be served alcohol at these meals, you will be offered juices and sweet baklava for dessert! An overnight stay in a Bedouin tent is often the highlight of a visit. They come in all kinds of shapes and sizes but are often large enough to accommodate dozens of people. Woven out of goat hair, in their most basic form they have mattresses for guests and in more luxurious tents the experience is more like ‘glamping’. Don’t worry either - they have thick rugs on the floor and warm blankets, so you won’t catch a cold, even on winter nights.The Negev Desert, Israel.Photo byMatan PerlmuteronUnsplashLand Ownership Issues:The question of land ownership is still a complex one in modern-day Israel - legally, as well as socially and historically. As stated above, Israel built seven townships (one which became a city) but what is also problematic is the number of unrecognised villages in the country, in which basic services - such as electricity and water - are often hard to come by. As a result, these villages are often ‘off the grid’ and their inhabitants suffer as a result.In the meantime, the Negev Bedouin have been claiming ownership of land in the Negev desert that amounts to 12 times the size of Tel Aviv! Since the 1970s, over 3.000 claims have been filed - the Bedouin argument is that these lands were illegally taken from them after 1948. They wish for these lands to be legally returned to them since they argue that they are indigenous people whose rights are continually being violated by the Israeli government. They argue that these lands are theirs as they were to their grandfathers and fathers and that after the state of Israel was declared, they were not allocated adequate space. In contrast, the Israeli authorities have argued that Bedouins are trying to take over many parts of the Negev by building homes on empty land, staking out farming and grazing areas. Since they have no permits to build, the Israeli government argues that they are effectively building on state-owned land, which is illegal...Israel is currently in the process of building a number of new villages or towns for the Negev Bedouin and these townships are intended to meet all of their future needs. The Israel Land Administration (ILA) also says it is doing everything in its power to deal with the problems of the landless Bedouin in the Negev. Clearly, the matter is very complex, since there are thousands of claimants (approximately 15,000) who represent the clans of the original claimants.The Negev Desert from the car window, Israel. Photo by Ondrej Bocek on UnsplashIdentity and Culture of Negev BedouinThe Bedouin are extremely tribal in nature and are organised in clans, in which are many extended family members. Bedouin culture is also patriarchal - the head of each family, as well as of each larger unit, which makes up the tribe, is called a sheikh.Each sheikh is aided by an informal tribal council of male elders. Furthermore, polygamy is widely practised in Bedouin society, which means it is quite usual for a Bedouin man to have a number of wives and sometimes even dozens of children. In places such as Egypt and Jordan, the Bedouin are often referred to as Arabs and this is technically correct. However, there is a real distinction - Bedouins are different from other groups because of their extensive kinship networks (giving them a great deal of community support) and rich culture.It is fair to say that the Bedouin have a very traditional (even conservative, by Israeli standards) culture. However, modern-day standards mean that they are far less homogenous a social group than they were, say, 50 years ago and many Bedouin now are pursuing professional and academic careers. In certain instances, they have also been incorporated into the military and police service.For sure, Bedouins are known for their extraordinary hospitality and also resourcefulness (after all, they have managed to survive in harsh climates, with limited resources, for hundreds of years). The Bedouin are also extraordinarily independent - as animal herders, they are used to migrating into the desert during the rainy season and returning to cultivated land in the dry summer months. It is not surprising, therefore, that so many of them have struggled to adapt to ‘urban living’, after moving to towns.A Bedouin man in Wadi Rum, Jordan. Photo byLukas BeeronUnsplashThe Bedouin Attitude towards IsraelThis is a very interesting question since there is a lot of ambiguity in Bedouin attitudes towards Israel. On the one hand, they are not ardent nationalists and struggle to identify with the concept of Zionism. On the other, many are proud Israelis, who choose to serve in the IDF (service which is mandatory for all Jews).Since Israel is very advanced in terms of education and high-tech, this means that more Bedouin have the opportunity to take advantage of technological progress and gain a university education (particularly women).Still, it is fair to say that the Bedouin community suffers from discrimination in Israeli society (particularly because its towns do not have the level of services and resources that they should have). Many Bedouin are still on the bottom rung of the socio-economic ladder in Israel and - by moving to townships - they have lost the traditional livelihoods that sustained them for centuries and, for them, that means a loss of ‘freedom’. So their attitude to Israel, essentially, remains ambivalent.If you are interested in Bedouin culture, feel free to book one of our customizable private tours!

Tourism is slowly returning to the world and Israel is no exception - COVID restrictions are easing and if you’ve been double vaccinated and your last shot was less than 6 months ago, then you’re welcome in the Holy Land. Once you’ve received the results of your PCR test from the airport (which usually takes around 12 hours) you’re free to start exploring - and what better place to start than with two of Israel’s top attractions - Masada and the Dead Sea.Tourists on a day group tour to Masada and the Dead Sea with Bein Harim.Photo credit: © Sarah MannWriting this not just as Bein Harim’s social media maven but as an intrepid solo traveler, I’ve always wondered what it’s like to explore sites abroad with a group, led by a professional, guide and today I’m being given the chance to find out first-hand, joining one of the company’s first-day tours running since Winter 2020! I really have no idea what to expect so I’m coming with an open mind, plenty of sunscreen, snacks, and the requisite bathing suit! Let’s see if it’s all it’s cracked up to be…Tel Aviv pick-up - 6.40 amBleary-eyed, I show up at the pick-up point, in downtown Tel Aviv, early. I quickly spot the other participants - three women, from France, Austria, and the US respectively. They’re all taking a longed-for vacation after Corona and love the idea of a group day tour - they tell me they don’t want to deal with car rentals, Israeli roads, and complications in Hebrew. They also want to learn as much as they can about the area we’re visiting, andguided tours in Israelare perfect for that.And before we know it, here he is, in a bright yellow banana-themed t-shirt. His name’s Itamar and he’s been guiding for over a decade - he’s young, fun, personable, and immediately we all warm to him. We hop in the van and head towards Jerusalem, to pick up our fifth trip member. Before we’ve even hit the highway, he’s giving us a bit of the history of Tel Aviv and quizzing us on our Hebrew. This is going to be fun!Sea Level Sign, on the way to the Dead Sea.Photo credit: © Sarah MannJerusalem pick-up -7.55 amWe pick up Elena at the hotel - we’re a bit late because we’ve been battling city traffic and then we’re off. Jerusalem’s en route to the Dead Sea and soon we’ve left the city behind and are confronted with desert scenery and Bedouin shepherds. We stop for an obligatory photo at the ‘Sea Level’ sign and stretch our legs - it’s November but the weather is perfect - a toasty 26 degrees. Then we jump back in our van and head south, heading further and further below sea level. The Dead Sea’s the lowest point on earth (!) and we can feel the temperature rising. Itamar reminds us to drink lots of water (a must in this part of the world) and points out things of interest en route, including the Qumran caves (where famousDead Sea Scrollswere discovered there in 1947).There is a number of sinkholes (where the soil has eroded, with devastating consequences) causing parts of Route 90 to be cordoned off. The Dead Sea is evaporating - in the last 30 years it’s said to have lost 30% of its water - and the climate crisis isn’t helping it either.Masada Cable Car, Israel. Photo by Debby Hudson on UnsplashIn the meantime, we’re all getting to know each other, chatting about where we’re from and why we took the trip. For some, it’s the first time in Israel, for others a chance to rediscover old places. We’re a group of independent women, all with our own reasons for loving travel, and being driven by Itamar is a delight because he’s hilarious and knowledgeable at the same time. After a pit stop at the Ahava outlet (where we grab a coffee and a couple of us buy some mud pack treatments), it’s onto our first stop of the day - Masada.This ancient fortress is a place I personally have visited a fair few times but I have to admit that every time I return, I get goosebumps. Completely isolated, at the top of a mountain in the midst of the Judean desert, it takes your breath away. Designed by King Herod, a master builder and lover of the good life, not only was Masada his ‘winter retreat’ but also a haven from his enemies. And Herod spared no expense either - this Royal Citadel contained not one but two sumptuous palaces, remains of which have been excavated and we’re going to see today.Looking through an ancient stone wall opening at the Masada ruins in Israel. Photo by Craig Vodnik on UnsplashMasada Fortress - 11.30 amBefore we ascend by cable car, Itamar gives us a little history of the complex (which is, by the way, completely fascinating) and we watch a fun 7-minute film, explaining the strategic importance of the fortress and why it’s so important to Israelis today. There’s a lot of Jewish history bound up with this place - after all, it was where Jewish rebels, 2,000 years ago, decided to commit suicide en masse rather than be taken alive (and then be made slaves) by the Romans. A sobering thought - but also a symbol of Jewish resistance, heroism, and bravery. No wonder it’s so revered today.Exploring the Fortress - 12 pmWow! Up we go, in the cable car, with astonishing views below us, including the ‘snake path’ which winds through the mountain precariously. We then spend a good hour exploring the site - frescos, bathhouses, cisterns, storerooms (with tonnes and tonnes of grain), and even a synagogue. Now I realize the advantage of taking guidedMasada tours- Itamar has a wealth of information at his fingertips and I’m learning so much (even as someone who’s studied Jewish history for 20 years). He takes us from place to place, answering our questions, explaining the whys and wheres of this astonishing fortress, treating us to some ‘Bamba’ (a tasty peanut snack that Israelis love, which he packed in his bag in case we became hungry before lunch!) We look at models of Masada, in terms of how it was set out, back in the day, and marvel at the thermal pipes, the aqueducts, and even the sleeping quarters for the guards who protected Herod. Tourists in Masada, Israel. Photo credit: © Sarah MannThere truly is no end to the resourcefulness of the engineers involved in Masada, we all agree. Built in the year 30 BCE, it’s spread out over three terraces and made up of eight Roman camps, a siege wall, and a ramp constructed of earth and wood, which was established on the western side of the fortress. It’s also an example of a luxurious villa - Herod imported only the finest wines and best food here, no matter the cost and the lengths that armies of servants had to go to transport it. Still, this was a place where the King didn’t just enjoy himself but also conducted business - and Herod was certainly one for impressing his guests.It’s super hot by now and we’re all looking for shade, every time we move to a different spot. Itamar takes us to some fabulous lookout points where, at every turn, we’re afforded panoramic views. The Dead Sea glistens before us, shades of blue and turquoise, and the sky is clear. What’s even more astonishing is that, because of COVID, Masada is almost deserted. We don’t have to wait to enter a single part of the complex and, in certain parts, the silence almost deafens us.Masada ruins, Israel. Photo by Kelly Repreza on UnsplashIt’s also fun to be in a group tour like this - because it’s a lot smaller than normal, it gives us the chance to ask endless questions and really get to know each other better. We’re a very diverse group - Maria grew up in South America and because she’s catholic, it’s always been her dream to visit Israel. Francois’s been in the Holy Land before, but it was over 20 years ago, and in the meantime, she’s been learning Hebrew, Linda’s flown in from LA because she wanted to take a holiday before starting a new job. And Ute’s taking a quick break, having hopped a flight from Vienna to Tel Aviv with Wizz Air. It’s really eye-opening, meeting all these different people, who’ve come from all over the place to visit this country! It’s also good to see how much they’re enjoying their time in Israel and, from what I can see, their day out with Itamar. Our guide reminds us to keep swigging water and we oblige. Now it’s off to the Dead Sea, for a spot of lunch, some floating in the lowest point on earth and some optional mud-slathering!2000-year-old fortress of Masada. Photo credit: © ShutterstockDead Sea - 2.15 pmWe’re heading to Kalia Beach, at the top of the Dead Sea (for which there is an entry fee, but it’s included in the price of the day trip). Itamar, our loveable guide, gives us the lowdown on where to find changing rooms, lockers, and places to grab a bite (because we’re all starving!) Nobody can wait to get into their bathing suit - the idea of floating in water is quite novel! - and soon we’re all at the water’s edge. As someone who’s content just to sit in a chair and admire the views of Jordan from across the water, I soon become the appointed photographer, snapping everyone as they wade in and realize, quite quickly, how buoyant they are!The weather’s good, even though it’s mid-November, and the beach isn’t particularly crowded either. The air feels so clean and pure, and I can’t help but smile as I watch my group trying valiantly to put their feet down in the water! Some are reading books (the ultimate photo opportunity, to show off back home).Some are floating peacefully and one has got out of the water to cover herself in black mud, which can be found all over the beach and is perfect if you want to rejuvenate your skin! Even Itamar has stripped down to his trunks and has gone in, and I have to smile as I watch them all larking around…Floating at the Dead Sea, Kalia Beach, Israel. Photo credit: © Sarah MannThe beach closes at 4.30 pm (since it gets dark early at this time of the year) and, as sorry as we are to leave, we’re all quite exhausted. We hit the road back to Jerusalem and as we arrive in the city, dusk is turning to dark and the lights are twinkling. Itamar drops off two of our participants (one wants a cocktail, the other has decided - on my recommendation - to make an impromptu visit to the Israel Museum since it’s open until 9 pm that night). Everyone’s swapping numbers and hoping to meet again in Tel Aviv, for dinner, in a couple of days. We’re tired but happy, that’s for sure. By the time we arrive back in Tel Aviv, I’m dead beat, Itamar, who’s gone above and beyond for all of us today, drops us all off personally, close to our homes, and as I hug them all goodbye I wonder why I’ve spent my life avoiding day group tours. After all, even if you’re traveling independently in Israel, there’s no reason why taking these kinds of trips isn’t a great idea.So there you have it - what to expect on a day tour to Masada and the Dead Sea. And whilst I do work for Bein Harim Tours, I have to say that this is a day tour I’d recommend to anyone - history, archaeology, scenery, and a chance to chill out at the beach too. These are sites that everyone should see on a trip to Israel, and taking one of the organized Dead Sea tours is ideal for anyone who doesn’t want to hire a car, appreciates the knowledge of a guide, and wants to make new friends. Competitively priced and giving you a lot of bang for your buck, what’s not to like? In fact, I might even take another one soon. Watch this space…Sunset at the Dead Sea, Israel. Photo by Benjamin Rascoe on Unsplash

Israel is a country packed with culture - and for art lovers, there’s an incredible amount to see, and not just in the endless museums scattered all across the country. Sculpture is not what often springs to mind when you say ‘art’ in Israel but it is a medium that’s becoming more and more prevalent.Sculpture in Ilana Goor Museum, Israel.Photo credit: ©Dmitry MishinWhether you’re walking in Israeli sculpture gardens in the big museums of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, exploring kibbutzim and moshavim (small settlements) in the countryside, or just traveling from place to place and stopping off randomly along the way, you’re going to see sculptures. There’s even one at Ben Gurion airport, at the arrivals gate - a figure reading a book (well, Jews are said to be the people of the book!) Let’s have a look at some of the most popular installations you can see when visiting Israel...From when can we chart the beginnings of Israeli sculpture?It’s fair to say that we can trace the beginnings of Israeli sculpture back to the founding of the Bezalel Academy of Art and Design in 1906. (Bezalel, according to the Hebrew Bible, was the most important artisan of his time, and, appointed by Moses, led the project to build the Ark of the Covenant). Bezalel is situated in Jerusalem, on the Mount Scopus campus of the Hebrew University. It was founded in 1906 by Boris Schatz, a Jewish painter, and sculptor, and is Israel’s oldest educational institution. Schatz had a vision of a ‘national style’ of art that would blend traditional Jewish and Middle Eastern works with a European tradition.What is interesting is that even though Schatz himself was a sculptor, sculpture was not really considered a priority, and much more emphasis was placed on the art of painting, as well as design. Of course, at that time, there were not many sculptors in Israel. The majority of them were immigrants from Europe and their work was often a fusion of European styles with a national artistic trend that was developing in the land of Israel (and, after 1948, the State of Israel).Palmahim Beach sculptures, Israel. Photo byChen MizrachonUnsplashBoris Schatz - The Father of Israeli ArtSchatz himself was considered the Father of Israeli Art. Before arriving in Jerusalem he had studied in Paris and had learned his skill from teachers who took quite a classical approach, so unsurprisingly his own work was very much influenced by this training. Nevertheless, because he was a Zionist, his subjects were primarily Jewish. He took figures from the Bible such as Mattathias ben Johanan and created them in sculptures as a way of representing good over evil. Still, for decades to come sculpture was very much on the periphery of the curriculum. Commemorative SculptureIsrael is filled with monuments commemorating events in the history of the state - both from 1948 (when it was established) until today and before 1948. Many of these are sculptures and have been designed specifically to invoke the notion of remembrance. These sculptures are a form of visual art but what makes them different is that they have been designed to commemorate historical events - and in Israel’s case, tragic events, the most important one being the Holocaust. Sculptures exist all over the country, commemorating what was probably the greatest tragedy in the history of the Jewish people. Fountain "Zodiac Signs", Jaffa.Photo credit: ©Dmitry MishinSculpture at Yad VashemPerhaps one of the most moving places to witness these is at Yad Vashem, Israel’s museum to the murdered six million. Located at Mount Herzl, in Jerusalem, visitors can explore the extensive museum and walk through the grounds, where there are 20 outdoor sculptures that relate to remembrance and the Holocaust. These works include The Warsaw Ghetto Square, the Pillar of Heroism, and the Yad Vashem Candelabra.The Warsaw Ghetto Square - designed by Nathan Rapaport, this monument is made of two bronze reliefs on a red brick wall (symbolizing the wall of the ghetto). On the right, the deportation of Jews to the extermination camps is depicted - young, old, healthy, and sick. On the left, there is a portrayal of the Ghetto Uprising, where men and women, with rifles, stones, and guns, fought heroically against the Nazis.The Pillar of Heroism - this is a three-sided pillar, made of shining stainless steel conclave panels, the front of which bears the inscription: “To the martyrs...the ghetto fighters...the partisans...to those who rebelled in the camps...to the fighters of the underground...to the soldiers in the armies...to those who saved their brethren...to the courageous people who took part in the clandestine immigration...to the heroes of valor and revolt …”The Yad Vashem Candelabra - this symbolic menorah was designed in 1985 by the sculptor Zohara Schatz, the first woman to ever win the Israel Prize. The six-branched aluminium candelabra represents the six million Jews killed and the piece, considered to be one of the museum’s great emblems, is at its entrance.Hall of Names in the Yad Vashem Holocaust History Museum, Jerusalem. Photo bySnowscatonUnsplashSculpture at the Weizmann Institute, RehovotIn 1972, Danny Caravan created the monument “To the Holocaust” at the Weizmann Institute, Israel’s leading scientific institute in Rehovot, a city close to Tel Aviv. Inside a rectangular plaza (which is sunken) is a large bronze sculpture of a broken Torah scroll, balanced in a very unsound way (as if it could fall at any moment) on a white stone basis. A stream of water that flows constantly drips down a crack in the center of the base. The dripping water symbolizes the tears of those who were sent to their death. A Star of David is engraved on the Torah as well as a series of numbers - these are carved to represent the numbers tattooed onto the arms of victims of the camps. There is also an inscription of the first line of the Shema - a central prayer in the Hebrew liturgy and one said traditionally by Jews before death draws close. Sculpture at Kibbutz Mishmar Ha’EmekThe only Holocaust monument established in Israel before the creation of the state in 1948, this is a monument to the children who perished in this terrible time. Located at Kibbutz Ha’Emek, it is nestled in the Jezreel Valley, a beautiful part of northern Israel. A stone wall surrounds a small plaza and carved into the wall are four alcoves, each with sculptured figures. They movingly depict the tiny spaces in which children hid and the ways in which their parents tried to protect them.The Gate of Faithby Daniel Kafri, Jaffa, Israel. Photo byJeremy BezangeronUnsplashThe Billy Rose Sculpture Garden at Jerusalem’s Israel MuseumThe Billy Rose Art Garden, named after the New York theatrical producer and designed by the Japanese-American sculptor Isamu Noguchi, is considered to be one of the most wonderful sculpture gardens of the 20th century. Located in Jerusalem’s world-famous Israel Museum, Noguchi began planning the garden in the early 1960s on the steep slopes of the grounds of the museum and divided it up into different sections, using walls of fieldstones. Noguchi worked with a Zen principle in mind and used materials such as water, gravel, and concrete, as well as incorporating many plants indigenous to the Middle East into his design. Completed in 1965, and set against the backdrop of an astonishing and dramatic Jerusalem landscape, visitors can wander the gardens and see works by many famous sculptures, including Henry Moore, Pablo Picasso, Auguste Rodin, Joel Shapiro, and Menashe Kadishman.Notable pieces include the Indian artist Kapoor Anish’s ‘Turning the World Upside Down’- an hourglass-shaped reflective piece that effectively turns the world on its head. Apparently, it is meant to represent the vision of the former mayor of Jerusalem, Teddy Kollek, who saw Jerusalem as a ‘merger’ of heaven and earth.Another piece that is infinitely photo-worthy (and loved by Instagrammers!) is Robert Indiana’s famous ‘Ahava’ sculpture at the Israel Museum in Jerusalem. Ahava, in Hebrew, means ‘love’ and is spelled out in four Hebrew letters (aleph, heh, bet, heh). Visitors can climb inside the huge steel weathered letters and pose for the camera with the Jerusalem hills in the background.Park Sculpture by Eli Ilan, Har HaBanim, Ramat Gan, Israel. Photo credit: ©Dmitry MishinThe Tel Aviv Museum of Art Sculpture GardenEstablished in 1999, the Tel Aviv Museum’s sculpture garden gives visitors the opportunity to view over 30 contemporary works by sculptors both from Israel and around the world, in its permanent collection. The Lola Beer Ebner Sculpture Garden in Memory of Dolfi Ebner is a true place of peace and tranquility in busy Tel Aviv. A sunken garden, it is surrounded by eucalyptus trees and the perfect place to take a break from the hustle and bustle of Tel Aviv. Visitors should look out for the Tel Aviv–Yafo Mosaic, created in 1999 by Italian artist Enzo Cucchi. It forms the path linking the upper level to the lower one. Another interesting sculpture is by Israeli artist Yitzhak Danziger in 1963. Close by, in Nata’s Garden, are two other sculptures on permanent display: ‘Sisyphus and Jacob Meet by the Well’ by Sigalit Landau and ‘Wreaths’ by Erez Israeli."Mizpor Shalom" - The Ursula Malbin Sculpture Garden, HaifaSituated in Haifa, this is the first sculpture garden in Israel devoted entirely to a female artist. Here, visitors can view many of Ursula Malbin’s works, created in the last 60 years. Mitzpor Shalom (which in English means ‘Peace Park’) is close to the Bahai Gardens.Tel Aviv Museum of Art.Photo credit: ©Dmitry MishinThe Omer Open Museum Sculpture GardenThis sculpture garden can be found just outside of Beersheba, the getaway city to Israel’s Negev desert. Omer is a small ‘yishuv’ (a settlement created before the State of Israel was created) and on the grounds of its Open Museum visitors can see a range of artworks from the museum collection. The collection includes sculptures by the following artists: Ilan Averbuch, Shlomo Selinger, Shlomo Schwarzberg, Ofra Zimbalista, Gengiz Çekil. As well as the permanent works, the garden also features temporary sculpture exhibitions. Omer is one of three Open Museums (the other two are Tefen and Tel-Hai, in the north of Israel) and another sculpture garden - Dalton - which have all been established within industrial parks in Israel.Kibbutz Dalia Sculpture Garden, GalileeLocated in Galilee, this sculpture garden was established by kibbutz member Nathan Ezra Yenuka who wanted to focus on art and present it in a way that really represented the spirit of the community. There are 24 works to see and they are made of all kinds of material, including polyester, marble, and even local rocks. Bahai Gardens, Haifa.Photo credit: ©Dmitry MishinVarda Yatom Sculpture Gallery, Upper GalileeLocated in Kibbutz Sasa, in the Upper Galilee, artist Varda Yatom is considered to be one of Israel’s leading ceramic sculpture artists and has a wonderful gallery which you can visit, and meet Varda herself. The kibbutz also boasts a museum of archaeology (free entry) and panoramic views of northern Israel and Lebanon. Our tip: don’t miss their ice cream parlor - the flavors are fantastic!Sculpture Park at Mitzpe Ramon, Negev HillsThe brainchild of Ezra Orion, this sculpture park is located on the edge of the Maktesh Ramon (the Ramon Crater) which was formed over millions of years. It runs for 2 kilometers and was created in 1963 after artists from across the world were invited to arrive and create whatever piece they chose. The only condition - they had to chisel their pieces out of one large rock. Take a trip to the Negev desert, visit Mitzpe Ramon and decide for yourself what some of these weird and wacky creations represent!To explore Israeli sculpture in detail feel free to join our private tours.

When reading about the history of the Middle East and, in particular, the Holy Land, you’ll often hear references to the term ‘‘ancient Israel’. But what does that really mean? Well, in large part it is to do with the tribes and kingdoms that were formed by the Jewish people in the Levant in ancient times. (The Levant is an area that, today, is made up of Lebanon, Jordan, Syria, Israel and Palestine)A camel rests between trips, Negev Desert, Israel.Photo byCole KeisteronUnsplashAncient Israel's main agricultural products were grapes, olives, lentils, dates and grains (usually wheat or barley). Over time, they developed a thriving trade with Egypt, Greece and Cyprus (using their ports on the Mediterranean). But how did they travel further afield? By creating different routes, some which ran by the sea and others which ran over hilly terrain.Below we’ll be taking a look at certain ancient routes in Israel - some no longer exist, and others have been ‘modernised’ to give tourists a sense of what life was like thousands of years ago when people travelled by foot and with camels to explore new lands and trade their wares...The Via MarisThe Via Maris was, for sure, one of the most significant ancient Israel trade routes. Both In Hebrew (‘Derech haYam’) and Latin, this means ‘ Way of the Sea’ and references to it can be found both in Isaiah (in the Hebrew Bible) and Matthew (in the Christian Bible). It dates back to the early Bronze Age and was a route linking Egypt with the northern empires of Syria, Mesopotamia and Anatolia.‘Via Maris’ is a Roman term and the reference to the sea is, of course, theMediterranean Sea- the stretch of coast through which the route passed. It is also known by other names - the ‘Coastal Road’ and ‘the way of the Philistines’ and in modern-day Israel, it is referred to as the ‘International Coastal Highway.’Tel Aviv Port, Israel. Photo byShai PalonUnsplashThe Via Maris was one of three major trade routes that were used in ancient Israel, along with the Ridge Route and the King’s Highway. Within ancient Israel, it ran from the Galilee (in the north) to Samaria (in the south) and passed through the Jezreel Valley. Along the route, it split into two branches - one that ran along the coast from Acre down to Ashkelon and Gaza, and the other that took an inland route, through the Sea of Galilee and Jezreel Valley, the two branches reunited at Megiddo (known in contemporary times as ‘Armageddon’).The Via Maris was a principal coastal highway for traders and the one most of them chose to travel on from Egypt and then far north. There were simple reasons for this - it was close to water, sources of food and towns. It also avoided the highlands. Megiddo was equally important as a pit stop on this route, guarding the western branch of a narrow pass on the most important trade route of the ancient Fertile Crescent. Sea of Galilee, Israel. Photo byChris GallimoreonUnsplashThe Via Maris connected all of the major trade routes stretching from Egypt and Syria to Iraq, Turkey and modern-day Iran. As a major thoroughfare, it connected the Sinai with Damascus passing, as mentioned before, through the Jezreel Valley. Over the centuries, after the Jews were exiled from Israel, that valley was abandoned and became a marshy, swampy area. It was only revitalised after Zionist pioneers arrived in the early 20th century and set about draining the land; today, of course, it is unrecognisable - filled with orchards, greenhouses and kibbutzes/moshavim that produce all kinds of fruits and vegetables.Crucially, branches of the Via Maris also intersected with the major trade routes of its era including the Silk Road, the Indus Valley and beyond. The Via Maris was a ‘home base’ for explorations of worlds beyond - indeed, it was really the beginning of commerce, where Jews would trade fish, grains, oil and dairy for everyday staples from the Far East (as well as luxuries like spices). Nachsholim Beach, Nahsholim, Israel. Photo byBen MichelonUnsplashThe King’s HighwayThe Kings Highway (also referred to as the ‘Via Nova Traiana’ was an ancient thoroughfare that connected the Gulf of Aqaba and Syria through the area that we now know as Jordan. One of the world’s oldest continually used routes of communication, it is mentioned in the Hebrew Bible. The King’s Highway was a crucial passage for ancient trade, running from north to south of this part of the Levant. The Roman Emperor Trajan (who reigned from 98-1117 CE) actually renovated the road, in his desire to improve communications and transport between Aqaba and Bostra.Once ‘modernised’ the road was then referred to as the ‘Via Nova Traiana’ (as opposed to another road, in Italy, that had been built by the same Emperor, named ‘Via Traiana’. The King’s Highway was a crucial artery for Crusaders, journeying from Europe via Syria to Jerusalem on their military pilgrimages and for the interested visitor, there are many fortified castles to be explored on its route, even today.Today, the King’s Highway is still promoted as a tourist attraction with more rural parts of Jordan. It links up important historical sites such as Al Karak, Al Tafilah and, most notably, Petra, as well as beautiful natural sites such as Wadi Al Mujib.Wadi Rum, Aqaba, Jordan. Photo byRinaldo VadionUnsplashThe Ridge RouteThis path was of less importance for international trade than either the Via Maris or the King’s Highway but, nevertheless, travellers used this route. They would travel through the hills of Judea and Samaria, passing by the city of Jerusalem. It was called the Ridge Route (or sometimes the Hill Route) because it followed the watershed ridgeline of the surrounding mountains.The Way of the PatriarchsThis ancient north-south route crisscrossed the land of Israel. It was given this name by biblical scholars because of its having been mentioned in biblical narratives. This, you see, was the route often travelled by Abraham, Isaac and Jacob, the three founding fathers of Judaism.Also known as Derech ha Avot (the Hebrew term), it linked Jerusalem and Hebron and today can be found between the communities of Alon Shvut and Neve Daniel in the Gush Etzion part of Judea. Unlike the Via Maris and the King’s Highway, which were ancient roads that ran international borders and passed through the territory of many different peoples, this route was entirely within the territory of ancient Israel.Snow in Kings Highway, Jordan.Photo by Thales Botelho de Sousa on UnsplashThe Incense RouteThe Incense Route was an ancient trade network of important land and sea trading routes. It connected the Eastern world with the Mediterranean and involved ports all across Egypt and the Levant, as well as northeastern Africa, Arabia, India and the Far East. From the 3rd century BCE until 2 CE, the Nabateans were transporting incense across the desert, from Arabia to the Mediterranean and, from then on, demand for other luxury goods in the Roman world flourished. The Incense Route was a way to trade all kinds of articles, including Arabian frankincense and myrrh. Gold, rare woods and feathers came from Africa whilst precious stones, pearls, silk and spices arrived from India and further east. The Incense Trade Route was, in the main, controlled by the Arabs, who transported goods by camel caravans and for almost 700 years, this hazardous but very profitable trade was carried on.Mamshit, Nabatean city, part of the Incense Road, Israel. Photo credit: Jenny EhrlichMerchants also had other ingenious ways of trading on this route - indeed, some individuals in Southern Arabia constructed inflatable rafts made out of animal skins. From there, they could secretly float bundles of incense out on the Arabian sea, where ships were clandestinely waiting for them. The ships would then sail up the Red Sea in the dead of night and drop off the incense at ports in Egypt.Today, visitors to Israel can explore the Incense Route down in the Negev desert. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a wonderful site, with archaeological sites and desert panoramas. The ‘Spice Route’ as it is called by locals, is perhaps best explored on a jeep trip since much of the terrain (especially in the Arava part of the desert) is barren and suitable only for experienced hikers.Travelling north on the Spice Route, a particularly fine place to visit is Mitzpe Ramon, home to the world-famous crater. Whether you want to hike inside it, wander around its parameters and enjoy the views or abseil down its side, you’re bound to enjoy yourself. There’s also an ‘Artists Quarter’ nearby, as well as a farm selling local goats’ cheeses and many visitors choose to stay overnight in Bedouin campsites.Mitzpe Ramon, Israel. Photo byDmitry ShamisonUnsplashThe Gospel TrailThe Gospel Trail was established by Israel’s Ministry of Tourism in November 2011, giving Christian pilgrims (and indeed anyone else interested in this period of history) the opportunity to walk in the footsteps of Jesus. Consisting of over 60 km of paths and roads with special signposts, tourists can walk, hike or cycle as little or as much of the route as they choose. The route itself runs through Galilee, beginning at Nazareth (where Jesus spent many of his formative years) and ending at Capernaum, on the edge of the Sea of Galilee. It follows the route Jesus was supposed to have taken (referenced in the Book of Matthew, in the Christian Bible) when he left his hometown and set off for Galilee, where he would begin his ministry.The main part of the route begins, as stated above, in Nazareth, and visitors can walk along the Nazareth range, affording panoramic views of Mount Tabor, the Church of the Transfiguration, Kfar Kanna, and the Turan Valley.Column in the synagogue,Capernaum, Israel. Photo byPhil GoodwinonUnsplashThe path then slopes down through the Arbel cliffs towards the sea of Galilee, until it reaches ancient Magdala (the home of Mary Magdalene). From Magdala, it continues north along the Sea of Galilee until it reaches what is known as the ‘Holy Triangle’ - the places that are the Mount of Beatitudes, Tabgha, and Capernaum.From there, visitors can walk the length of the Sea of Galilee on the promenade (or bike around it, if they are fit!) and stop along the way to see all kinds of attractions, including national parks, churches and the baptismal site of Yardenit.Israel National Trail (Shvil Israel)This hiking trail traverses the length of the country, stretching approximately 1000 km from Kibbutz Dan in the far north (near the Lebanon border) all the way down to Eilat, on the Red Sea. Loved by nature enthusiasts, biblical scholars, and adventurers alike, it's the perfect way to see Israel’s natural beauty.The Israel National Trail was the idea of Abraham Tamir and Ori Dvir, who were avid Israeli hikers. Inaugurated in 1995, it has given thousands of locals and tourists the opportunity to experience Israel’s varied landscapes up close and personal - from mountains and hills to deserts and wadis. A continuous footpath across the country, it has been lauded by nature enthusiasts, ramblers, hikers, and even National Geographic.Mountains near Eilat, Israel.Photo byJosh AppelonUnsplash

Israel is home to all kinds of religious and ethnic groups - Jews, Christians, Muslims and those of the Baha'i faith. But one group isn’t talked about as much - and that is the Druze. Indeed, even in Israel, many of its citizens don’t know much about this small minority who have lived in the religion for thousands of years.Druze man in his car. Photo by Marquise de Photographie on UnsplashThe Druze community is, within the Levant, not a small group - in fact, it numbers between 800,000 and a million followers. Based mainly in Lebanon, Syria, and Israel (and a small number in Jordan) there is a certain amount of mystery surrounding them since many of their practices are kept secret not just from ‘outsiders’ but even from members of their own community.Indeed, even today, only a small privileged number of Druze known as ‘Uqqal’ (followers) participate fully in Druze religious rituals and are given access to the teachings of their secret scriptures. Moreover, since Druze have historically been forbidden from marrying outside their own faith (and intermarriage today is still unusual) it is hard for those outside their society to fully grasp the inner workings of their community.So what do we know about the Druze, particularly those in Israel? Is it possible to visit them and experience their hospitality? Can one convert to the Druze faith or pray with Druze? And how do they seem themselves, as a minority in the state? Let’s take a closer look at some of their beliefs and practices, and find out more about these fascinating people...Druze guard in Jerusalem, Israel. Photo byLevi Meir ClancyonUnsplashHistory of the DruzeThe history of the Druze is indeed a fascinating one with historians, anthropologists, and geneticists still arguing about their origins today. There remains much dispute as to whether the Druze are of Turkish, Arabian, Persian, or Caucasus descent. No one is entirely sure but recent findings point to them hailing from a region somewhere between northeastern Turkey, northern Iraq, and southwest Armenia, bordering the Ararat and Zagros mountains. The Druze are first mentioned by a 12th-century traveler named Benjamin of Tudela, who wrote of them as being ‘fearless mountain-dwelling warriors who favored the Jews.’ Historians now believe the first Druze worshippers lived in Cairo, under the protection of Al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah, the ruler of Egypt and the eastern Mediterranean. After his rule, however, the Druze were persecuted terribly and many fled to other parts of the Levant. (This persecution may, in part, account for the fact that their faith soon became ‘closed’ to outsiders).Pyramids of Giza, near Cairo, Egypt. Photo by Simon Berger on UnsplashDruze ReligionWithout a doubt, the Druze are a unique religious and ethnic group. With a tradition dating back to the 11th century, their faith incorporates elements of different traditions including Islam, Hinduism, and even classical philosophy. The Druze place a great emphasis on spiritual purity and religious philosophy and their faith has many mentors, including John the Baptist, Moses, Jesus, and the Prophet Mohammed. However, unlike Christianity, Judaism, or Islam, the Druze have no clear holy days, pilgrimage obligations, or even a clear liturgy. Druze people are also admirers of Greek philosophers such as Socrates, Plato, and Aristotle! What is interesting about the Druze religion is that although the faith originally developed out of the Ismaili Shia branch of Islam, the Druze certainly do not identify as Muslims. In fact, Druze's philosophy supports the idea of reincarnation and believes that at the end of the cycle of rebirth (after many reincarnations) the soul will be united with the Cosmic Mind. This is a much more Hindu-like approach! The Druze do adhere to the idea of ‘theophany’ i.e. the appearance of a Deity (or even a personal encounter with a Deity), as well as their belief in the oneness of God. However, their holy book - known as the Book of Wisdom - is not known to many (it is not accessible or even comprehensible to those outside the faith).Aristotle's Metaphysics translated by Joe Sachs.Photo byTbel AbuseridzeonUnsplashThe Druze comunity in IsraelThe Druze population in Israel, according to the most current census carried out in 2019, stands at approximately 145,000. This is a dramatic increase since the eve of the establishment of the State of Israel in 1948 when the Druze community numbered just 14,500. This means that the Druze account for 1.6% of the total population of the country.Druze communities can be found in the north of Israel, predominantly in Galilee, the Carmel, and parts of the Golan Heights. Whilst it is certainly possible to visit Druze villages in Israel and experience great hospitality, it should be noted that in many respects they are a tight-knit and secretive spiritual community.One of the largest and most interesting Druze villages in Israel is Daliat-el-Carmel, around 20 kms southeast of Haifa. It has a bustling Saturday market (which is closed on Friday, the Druze sabbath) where you can buy handcrafted items and Druze souvenirs from Israel (don’t forget to bargain!) as well as local Druze restaurants and cafes at which you can sample excellent hummus. The Druze holiday of Nabi Shuʿayb atDaliat-el-Carmel, Israel. Photo credit: © ShutterstockOlder residents will be wearing long flowing gowns; younger residents dress in more Western-style clothing. Within the oldest part of town, look out for the shrine of Abu Ibrahim, whom the Druze consider a prophet, as well as the Oliphant House, home to Lawrence Oliphant, a British diplomat, mystic, and Christian Zionist of the 19th century.Just outside of the village (a few minutes' drive away) is the Carmelite Monastery of St. Elijah (also known as the ‘Muhraka monastery’). It is believed to be the place where Elijah offered a sacrifice to God, which in turn, was answered by God who sent down fire from the heavens. Inside the catholic chapel is a small sanctuary but it is the gardens that are really lovely, offering visitors the chance to engage in some peaceful contemplation or take the walking trail. For spectacular panoramic views of the Carmel, climb up to the roof. Daliat el-Carmel makes for an excellent day trip, which lets you also visit the charming artist’s village of Ein Hod, nearby.The Carmel Mount, Israel.Photo byYoav NironUnsplashDruze ZionismThe Druze community in Israel is extremely patriotic and their loyalty to the state is without question. The cultivation of a ‘special relationship’ between Jews and Druze began in the 1930s, in the form of a paramilitary alliance (which may have gone some way to alienate Druze Palestinians from their Sunni Muslim neighbors). Since the establishment of Israel, the general consensus has been that the Druze are natural allies of the Israeli state since they are loyal to the point of being prepared to fight in combat units. Israel has also recognized them as a separate Arab community since 1957. ||Druze IdentityAccording to recent research, 90$% of Israeli Druze feel very connected to their community and say they have a strong sense of belonging. The Druze in Israel are overwhelmingly proud of their identity and also believe (like many Jews and Muslims) that they have a special responsibility to take care of other members of their community around the world.What is also interesting is how they define themselves - what being Druze means to them. Is it culture, faith, or history? Here there is no clear consensus. Again, because no one can convert to the faith or technically leave the faith, outside accounts of Druze culture that exist are quite limited. A street in Daliat-el-Carmel, Israel.Photo credit: © ShutterstockIn terms of the ‘rules’ that they must follow, these include a prohibition on alcohol, tobacco, and pork. Polygamy is forbidden and men and women are technically viewed as equals, although whilst the role of women in Druze society is slowly changing, the Druze women are still seen, primarily, as mothers and daughters within the social hierarchy. Marriage is encouraged, but no Druze couple is permitted to marry until the prospective husband has built them a home. In terms of their economic contribution, historically Druze worked on the land but many have now entered the mainstream workforce, and are represented in all sections of society. Even Druze women, who traditionally worked in fields of teaching and education, are breaking into the world of finance and high tech. Indeed, spearheaded by fintech company Finastra in Kfar Saba (just 45 minutes drive from Tel Aviv), Druze women are being actively recruited into computer programming careers.The Druze FlagThere are variations of the Druze flag but the one thing all versions contain is five specific colors - green, red, yellow, blue, and white. Each color has different symbolic meanings: Red - the moon, the soul, and the ‘feminine’; green - the sun, the mind, and the ‘masculine’; blue - mental power and ‘the will’; yellow - ‘the word’ (i.e. the purest form of God’s truth); white - ‘the realization’ (i.e. the fulfillment of the word).The Druze Flag.By © Verdy pRelations with the Jews from 1948 to Present DayOn the eve of the War of Independence, the Druze had no hesitation in allying themselves with Israel, unlike most of the Palestinian Arabs. Historically, in 1942, after the Sunni leadership in Jerusalem threatened in 1942 to take control of the tomb of Jethro (‘Shuʿayb’’ to the Druze) in Tiberias, the Druze sided with the Jews and this has continued since - indeed, Druze soldiers have fought for Israel in every war since 1948. Today, not only are they well represented in the IDF but they also work in Israel’s diplomatic Corps and the Border Police. Military service and public officeThe Druze are very active in public life and not just subject to the military draft (the Israel Defence Force) but willing participants. Actually, for more than 40 years, there was a military unit composed primarily of Druze Infantry, called the ‘Herev’ (in Hebrew ‘Sword Battalion’). Distinguishing itself, it was awarded with two citations over the years (one for its operational activities in Lebanon, in the second war, and the other for infiltrating an Egyptian intelligence unit in the Negev).The Heruv battalion was dismantled in 2015 although, today, 80% of the Druze population in Israel is still drafted into the IDF and their soldiers have a stellar reputation for excelling in combat units.The Golan Heights.Photo byAviv Ben OronUnsplashStatus and position of the Druze in the Golan HeightsThe Druze who live in the Golan (as opposed to around the Carmel and the Galilee) in general have a more complicated relationship with Israel. In general, they refuse citizenship of Israel and in Majdal Shams, many still have relatives on the Syrian side of the border. Madjal Shams overlooks the divide between the Israeli-occupied part of the Golan and the plateau controlled by forces loyal to Syrian President Bashar al-Assad, Indeed, after the Golan was first annexed, the local Druze went on strike for some weeks until the Israeli government promised not to issue them with identity cards.To sum up then, if you’re visiting Israel, and especially if you’re planning on spending some time in the north of the country, particularly around the Galilee and Nazareth, why not visit one of the Druze villages - including Isfaya, Beit Jann, Pe’kin, Kasra, and Julis. With their tradition of warm hospitality and excellent cooking, you can see for yourself what makes them such a unique and extraordinary part of Israeli society.If you wish to explore the Druze culture and to distill the Druze secrets, feel free to book aHaifa and the Carmel Private TourThe destination sign at the Golan Heights.Photo byKarima AonUnsplash

Beersheba is the largest city in the south of Israel and often referred to as the ‘Capital of the Negev.’ Historically, it was home to many Jews from Sephardic backgrounds (i.e. those who immigrated to Israel from Arab countries). Over time, more immigrants arrived from Ethiopia and the former Soviet Union and today the city has a very mixed feel.Tel Beer Sheva, Israel. Photo credit: © Doron Nissim. Published with permission of the Israel Nature and Parks AuthorityThe outskirts of Beersheba are also home to many Bedouin - nomadic Arab tribes, who practice Islam and who mainly live in their own townships, built between 1968-1989 by Israel. The city has grown substantially since the establishment of the State of Israel in 1948 and today is home to the prestigious Ben-Gurion University of the Negev, as well as an emerging high-tech scene in Omer, a suburb just outside the city.Etymology of the name BeershebaEtymologically, be’er is the Hebrew word for ‘well’ and sheva could either mean ‘seven’ or ‘oath’ (see the history section below for more about this). In terms of what the city’s name actually refers to, there are a few explanations. These refer to Beersheba meaning: the oath of Abraham and King Abimelech (‘Well of the Oath’); the seven wells supposedly dug by Isaac (‘Seven Wells’); the oath of Isaac and King Abimelech (‘Well of the Oath’); the seven young lambs that sealed Abraham and King Abimelech's oath (‘Well of the Seven’).Beersheba in the BibleBeersheba has an interesting biblical history. According to the Hebrew Bible, it was created after Abraham built a well (‘be’er’ in Hebrew) in the Negev desert. After the king’s servants captured his well, Abraham complained to their master. The dispute was eventually settled with an accord (agreement) and they both, then, together, swore an oath (‘shevua’ in Hebrew) to confirm this.Beersheba symbolized the southern boundary of the Land of Israel. Historically, it was also the home of not just Abraham, but the other two Israelite patriarchs - Jacob and Isaac. It was an important center in Israelite times until the destruction of its altar in 7 BCE.Tel Beer Sheva National Park. Photo credit: © Nadav Taube. Published with permission of the Israel Nature and Parks AuthorityHistory of BeershebaThe earliest remains of settlement at Beersheba were found by archaeologists in the form of a number of rock-hewn dwellings (11th/12th centuries BCE) as well as a deep well that supplied fresh water to the first permanent settlement of the Israelites from the Tribe of Simeon. Much of this site was excavated in the late 1960s and early 1870s, uncovering several layers of settlement remains, including fortified towns from the early Israelite period and the time of the Kingdom of Judah.Geography of BeershebaSo where exactly is Beersheba? Well, if you look at a map of Israel, it’s situated on the northeastern edge of the Negev desert. It is 120 km southwest of Jerusalem and 115 km southeast of Tel Aviv. Because of the existence of water (which flows south from the Hebron hills each winter) and remains underground, it has been populated for thousands of years. Beersheba’s main river is the Beersheba stream which floods in the winter. Climate of BeershebaIn Beersheba, the summers are long, hot, and very dry. The winters, in contrast, are cold and mostly clear. Throughout the year, the temperatures can range from 7 to 35 degrees. Rainfall is rare but sandstorms occur periodically, as well as flash floods in the colder months.Demography and Economy of BeershebaBeersheba is the fourth largest city in Israel (after Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, and Haifa) with a population of 204,000, and an estimated population of 300,000 by 2030. It is a predominantly Jewish city, with 97% of its occupants identifying as Jews.The economy of Beersheba is growing, with the three biggest employers being the Soroka Medical Centre, the IDF (Israel Defence Forces), and Ben-Gurion University. A high-tech park is currently being built near the north railway station and another, the Sammy Ofer park, is located in nearby Omer. The city is also home to a number of electronic and chemical plants, including Teva Pharmaceuticals.The archeological site of Tel Beer Sheva, Israel. Photo credit: © Tsvika Tsuk. Published with permission of the Israel Nature and Parks AuthorityMuseums and Art Galleries in BeershebaAnzac Museum, Beersheba - the Anzac Memorial Centre is a wonderful center that tells the story of the ANZAC soldiers - hundreds of horsemen who came from Australia and New Zealand - who fought bravely in First World War Palestine. It tells the story of these soldiers and the conquest of the city in the course of the Battle of Beersheba (1917) in a very experiential manner, giving visitors the opportunity to journey back to another time and place.Old Quarter, Beersheba - the new ‘Old City’ in Beersheba was designed to provoke an upturn in tourism and seems to have had some success. The old train terminal has been restored, along with a Turkish engine (dating back to Ottoman times), two original railroad cars, and the station master’s dwelling. The historic city of Beersheba, widely known as "the Old City" is a unique example of a well-planned city, built by the Ottomans. Designed by German and local Arab architects it was once an extraordinary combination of oriental and modern. Alongside beautiful gardens and well-planned streets were fine oriental buildings, with ornate balconies and beautiful Arches and you can see these again today.Art Museum of the Negev, BeershebaThe museum’s collection mainly relates to modern Israeli art but, over the years, began displaying exhibitions of ceramics and international art. Back in Ottoman times, it was the home of the Governor and during the First World War, it housed British Officers. An important biblical site of Tel Beer Sheva. Photo credit: © Tsvika Tsuk. Published with permission of the Israel Nature and Parks AuthoritySites of BeershebaAbraham’s Well International Visitors Centre - According to the world’s three monotheistic religions (Christianity, Islam, and Judaism), this is the spot at which Abraham dug his famous well, leading the city to be named as such. Visitors are invited to join a tour (approximately 1 hour) where the story of Abraham is recounted and learn about the different roles of wells in ancient times. There is also the opportunity to watch a 3D movie with subtitles (in nine different languages). Israeli Air Force museum - one of the top attractions in Beersheba, here you can see an enormous collection of airplanes and helicopters, some of which you’ll even be able to explore and scramble upon, as well as a video on offer telling the story of Israel’s air force. As you might imagine, this museum is particularly popular on Israel Independence Day (when you can visit for free!)Negev Zoo - this zoo has a good collection of mammals, reptiles, and birds - keep a special lookout for the lizards, snakes, and turtles!Carasso Science Park - this family-friendly science museum offers visitors both young and old a variety of outdoor displays and interactive exhibits. It’s very much a hands-on experimental place, designed to stimulate kids’ interest in technology and science. It has seven specialized laboratories, dealing with subjects such as genetics, crops, and nuclear energy, as well as a 3D printing facility. It is open every day save for Friday.Driving in the Negev Desert, Israel. Photo by Ondrej Bocek on UnsplashTel Beer Sheba - these UNESCO-listed biblical city ruins can be found several kilometers east of the modern city today. This ancient town was originally built on a low hill on the banks of a wadi (dry river bed) which flooded each winter. These include an altar (once used for sacrifice), a well of 68 meters deep (one of the deepest in Israel), and the city gates (two, an outer and also the main gate, guarded by two towers). Visitors can also see the “Governor’s Palace'' which once boasted ceremonial halls, a storeroom (one of the largest buildings in the ancient city) which, when excavated, were found to contain hundreds of pottery vessels, and a water system, built deep into the chalk rock of the city fortifications.Transportation in BeershebaBeersheba, as the gateway city to the Negev, is well-served by public transport, which is fast, efficient, and relatively cheap. Egged bus number 470 from Beersheba to Jerusalem runs every half an hour from the main station and takes approximately 1 hour and 32 minutes, dropping you at the third floor of the Jerusalem Central bus station. Buses from Tel Aviv to Beersheva also run regularly, both from the Levinsky bus station and Savidor on the Namir Road. The fastest journey will take about 1 hour 13 minutes. Taking the train from Tel Aviv to Beersheba is also a good option - trains leave from Savidor, HaShalom, and HaHaganah stations every 30 minutes and the journey takes just under 1 hour 30 minutes with a fast train.From Beersheba to Eilat, there are buses leaving constantly, traveling directly south on Route 40. The journey will take approximately 3 hours with bus 397. From there, visitors can take tours to Jordan, especially tours to Petra. Even a day tour of Petra is possible since travel time from the border of Eilat/Aqaba to Petra is only 2 hours by car or minibus.Tel Beer Sheva, Beersheba, Israel. Photo credit: © Nadav Taube. Published with permission of the Israel Nature and Parks Authority

First of all, let’s assume you’re reading this because you’re already in Israel, or planning a visit to Israel, in which case “Congratulations - you’re going to have a great trip!” This country is an incredible destination with an enormous amount packed into a small amount of land, and there’s really something for everyone - whether it’s museums and galleries, old churches, beaches, mountains, nature reserves, deserts or archaeological sites. Whether it’s your first time in Israel or you're a returning visitor, you won’t be disappointed...The Western Wall, Jerusalem. Photo credit: © ShutterstockThe fact is, however, that whether you’re here for a few days or a few weeks, you want to make the most of your time, and that involves a bit of forward planning when it comes to moving between cities. The majority of visitors to Israel really do want to take advantage of the fact that you can get from the north to the south of the country in just a few hours, and between major cities like Tel Aviv, Jerusalem and Haifa in an hour or two. So let’s give you the good news straight up - Israel has a very well-developed infrastructure in terms of public transport and highways. A great deal of investment is being put into them at the moment so whether you want to get around on the road or by the train system, you’re not going to have too many problems. In fact, your biggest problem may well be traffic, because Israelis love their cars and as quickly as highways are being expanded, more people are purchasing new vehicles!That being said, if you plan ahead and travel outside of the busiest hours (rush hours being between 7 am to 9 am and 4 pm to 6 pm) making journeys between cities won’t be too bad at all. In this particular piece, we’ll be taking a look at how to travel from Ashdod (on the Mediterranean Sea coast) to Jerusalem (up in the hills), and hopefully, when you’ve taken a glance, you’ll have a better idea of your options and can choose the one that suits you best. Let’s start exploring Israel! First of all, let’s take a quick look at both Ashdod and Jerusalem and what they have to offer the visitor.Ashdod - is Israel’s sixth-largest city, home to a large Russian community, and the largest port in the country (receiving 60% of the country’s imports). It is situated in the south of the country, on the shores of the Mediterranean, 32kms from Tel Aviv. The distance between Jerusalem and Ashdod is 64 km.Non-touristy Ashdod, Israel.Photo byOleksandr KovalonUnsplashAlthough it’s not the first city people tend to visit after arriving at Ben Gurion Airport, it is where many cruise ships arrive, making a ship to shore excursion to Jerusalem ideal.Alternatively, you can spend time there visiting the old Arab Citadel/Fort, built at the end of the 7th century, the Museum of Philistine Culture and the Sand Dune Park. It’s also got fabulous beaches, where you can soak up the sun and swim in clear blue water.Jerusalem - is a city that needs no introduction. Home to three of the world’s major faiths, it brims with charm, excitement and spirituality. No visitor can fail to be moved as they walk through the narrow streets of the Old City, past the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Al Aqsa Mosque, down to the Western Wall. Whether you’re a Christian pilgrim, a history student, a fan of museums or a lover of open-air markets, you’ll be enchanted by what you see and experience and come away longing for more.Now to methods of transport - well, you have plenty of options. There is plenty of information on the various ways you can travel between these two cities - whether it’s taking a bus, booking a train ticket, using a private or shared taxi, enjoying a ship-to-shore excursion or renting a car. Let’s take a look at them all, one by one, so you can choose the one that’s best for you.People praying at the Wailing Wall. Photo byOndrej BocekonUnsplash1. How to Get from Ashdod to Jerusalem by BusIsrael’s bus service is comfortable, efficient and pretty cheap (since the bus system is subsidised by the government). Even better, the bus from Ashdod to Jerusalem runs very regularly, from early in the morning (5.30 am) until late at night (11 pm), notwithstanding the Jewish sabbath (from Friday afternoon to Saturday evening, when all public transport grinds to a halt).If you don’t travel in rush hour (usually between 7-9 am and 4-6 pm) the journey will likely take about 70 to 90 minutes. Bus number 448, operated by Egged, will take you there directly and it leaves every 45 minutes. A one-way ticket from Ashdod to Tel Aviv costs approximately around 20 NIS (6,5USD).You can either pay the driver as you board (in cash), buy a ticket from the counter beforehand, use one of the self-service machines, which often have different language settings) or pay by Rav Kav card. These green cards are easily purchased all over the country (in every bus and train station, small stores and the ‘Superpharm’ chain). Just purchase one for 5 NIS and then put as much credit onto it as you like. When you board the bus, press the card onto the electronic screen, as directed by the driver, and it will automatically deduct the cost of the ticket for you. (The receipt that’s printed out will also show you how much money you have left on your card). To learn more about this, go to the official Rav Kav website.Dome of the Rock, Temple Mount, Jerusalem, Israel.Photo byAdam KringonUnsplashAshdod Central Bus StationThe Ashdod Central Bus station is located on Menachem Begin Boulevard, in the city centre, and just under 20 minutes walk to the Marina. You can see inside very easily from which platform the bus departs - there are electronic signs everywhere in Hebrew and English - or ask a member of staff. Jerusalem Central Bus StationThe Jerusalem Central Bus Station is very close to the entrance to Highway 1 (where you’ll see the famous Bridge of Chords), on the Jaffa Road, which runs through the city centre and down to the Old City walls. It’s a large and modern building and is also located next door to the new and impressive Yitzhak Navon railway station.The Jerusalem central bus station is also a central hub for buses that run everywhere else in the country - north and south. From here you can reach Haifa, the Galilee, the Jordan Valley, Beer Sheva and Eilat, which is where you’ll be heading if you’re planning on making a trip to Petra, Jordan. Religious Jews walking near Old City Walls, Jerusalem. Photo byArno SmitonUnsplash2. How to Get from Ashdod to Jerusalem by TrainTaking the train from Ashdod to Jerusalem is also a good way to make this journey - it’s comfortable and reasonably fast, although you can’t travel directly (you have to make a change). The train leaves every half an hour and the first part of the journey takes about 45 minutes. At Tel Aviv HaHaganah station, you have to change trains (the waiting time is approx. 7 minutes) then the fast train on to Jerusalem will take you about 35 minutes.Ashdod railway station is in the Ad Halom area, near the eastern part of Ashdod. There is a drinks stand and small kiosk inside, as well as self-service ticket machines and a counter at which you can buy tickets and speak to officials. Yitzhak Navon central railway station is a super modern, recently opened building in Jerusalem. And it has the honour of being the world’s deepest station too (it’s 80 metres underground). With its glass ceilings and attractive mosaics, it’s capable of transporting thousands of people a day and can also hold large numbers, in case of emergencies. Once you arrive there and travel up to ground level by elevator or escalator, you’ll find yourself directly on Jaffa Road. From there you can catch the light rail downtown - to Mahane Yehuda Market, Zion Square and the Old City or, in the other direction, Mount Herzl and Yad Vashem. There are also a number of buses that stop outside the station, which can take you to neighbourhoods such as the German Colony, Rehavia and Talpiot.Mahane Yehuda Market, Jerusalem, Israel. Photo byRoxanne DesgagnésonUnsplash3. How to Get from Ashdod to Jerusalem by Private TaxiFinding a private taxi in Israel is no problem at all. The first scenario is you hail one down in the street (in the big cities, you will see them everywhere). Either ask them to put on the meter before you begin your journey or negotiate a price beforehand, so there are no surprises when you arrive in Jerusalem. Secondly, ask your hotel concierge, who will be able to recommend a local firm, who supplies them with trustworthy and honest drivers. Thirdly, you can always book a taxi directly from your Smartphone using an App such as Gett. The cost of a private taxi from Ashdod to Jerusalem will probably be somewhere between 400 - 500 NIS (125-155 USD). It is usually to give the driver a tip at the end of the journey - between 10-15% is fine.4. How to Get from Ashdod to Jerusalem with a Private TransferPrivate transfers are easy to arrange, but we advise you to book them through a trustworthy tour operator, to ensure you will be put in touch with a reputable and honest operator. You will be given a price and if you are satisfied with it, you can pay by credit card and from then on all matters will be handled expertly by the company and you don’t have to worry about a thing.At Bein Harim Tourism Services, we are always happy to help obtain quotes for people visiting Israel who need a private taxi - please call us or send us your details on our ‘Contact Us’ form and we will get back to you promptly, with a competitive offer.A shop in Jerusalem Old City.Photo byChristian BurrionUnsplash5. Ashdod Shore ExcursionsMaking a shore excursion from Ashdod Port to Jerusalem is a great way to spend your free day since you can be at your destination quickly and have several hours to spend exploring the old and new parts of the city. With ship-to-shore excursions from Ashdod Port, as soon as you step onto dry land, you will be met by a private guide and within minutes you’ll be in a comfortable vehicle, heading off. In just over an hour, as long as the traffic doesn't hold you up, you’ll arrive in Jerusalem. Then it’s up to you - explore the tiny alleyways of the Old City, walk in the footsteps of prophets and Crusaders, visit churches such as the Holy Sepulchre and Dominus Flevit, or take a trip to the world-famous Israel Museum then grab a light bite at Jerusalem’s famous Mahane Yehuda. We give you our word that when you book with Bein Harim, we’ll have everything go to plan and promise to get you back to your ship in good time for your departure.Gethsemane Garden, Jerusalem. Photo byStacey FrancoonUnsplash6. How to Get from Ashdod to Jerusalem with a Rental CarRenting a car in Israel is an excellent way to see the country. You’re in control from start to finish - it’s all up to you. You can leave what you want, make as many stops. As you like and even change your plans at the last minute. Car rental prices in Israel are quite competitive and, besides, renting a car gives you a level of freedom no other method of transport has, and who can put a price on that?If that’s not enough to convince you, unfortunately, there is no public transport in Israel from Friday afternoon to Saturday evening (the Jewish Shabbat), so options for travelling are quite restrictive. Of course, once you rent a car, this problem is gone! Driving from Ashdod to Jerusalem, without too much traffic should take you around 55 - 75 minutes. We would warn you, however, that Jerusalem is a very tough place to find parking. There’s a lot of traffic in the centre and free parking is a great challenge. There are underground garages and parking lots all over the city, however, so you can of course bite the bullet and pay for a ticket. Alternatively, you can try and park for free in a quiet suburb and take a taxi or bus into the centre. There are several well-known rental hire companies in Israel which include Hertz, Shlomo Sixt, Eldan, Avis and Budget. On average, renting a small car may cost you between 260-300 NIS (80-94 USD) a day but if you want to shop around, you might even be able to pick up a bargain. Take a look online a couple of days before or call and speak to their representatives - Israelis really do love to help...Now start planning your trip!Chruch of the Holy Sepulchre, Jerusalem.Photo byCristina GottardionUnsplash

If you’re traveling to Israel, and want to spend time in more than just one place (as most of us do) then you’re going to be thinking about ways to get around. The good news is that there are various modes of transportation in Israel - trains, public buses, private taxis, shared taxis, bikes, electric scooters and even, in Tel Aviv, initiatives such as ‘Bubble’ (shared vans that have the convenience of a taxi but for a far cheaper price).Beit Shean Theatre, Israel.Photo credit: ©Dmitry MishinHowever, if you want complete and absolute freedom (if one can ever have that!) then you really should think about renting a car. Once you’re behind the wheel, you’re in complete control - you get to decide when you travel, where you travel, and what kind of route you want to take. And if at the eleventh hour, you want to change your mind, then you won’t have to make phone calls, lose deposits and check schedules. The car will still be there for you when you are ready to leave.Business and Pleasure - a Сar is IdealRenting a car in Israel is ideal for tourists but it’s also great for business trips too. OK, you are in Israel to get work done but that’s no reason you can’t have some fun too. Traveling for work has its own challenges but if you have a car, you can explore the country and - with a bit of internet homework beforehand - find activities, restaurants, coffee shops, and museums that you’re curious about. Once you’ve rented a car, the country is yours for the taking. If a meeting finishes early or is even rescheduled, you can take advantage of your free time and drive to the beach or a nature reserve in no time at all. Traveling from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem is a breeze, by the way - less than an hour on the highway without traffic, meaning it's an easy day trip, especially if you leave in the afternoon (before rush hour) and return late in the evening.Driver's hand on steering wheel.Photo bywhy keionUnsplashOff the Beaten Track - Seven Days a WeekAnd if you’re in Israel as a tourist, you want to have fun and having a car means you set your own agenda. There are many parts of the country that are quite spectacular, including the Galilee, the Golan Heights, Crusader fortresses, and desert trails, but many are pretty inaccessible without a car. When you rent a vehicle, you can put together an itinerary that doesn’t just suit your personality but takes you off the beaten track, to the hidden gems of Israel that tourists never see - the ‘real’ Israel.Of course, even with a car, it’s sometimes nice to take a private tour of an area, where a professional local guide shows you around and gives you a chance to learn more about the area whilst not having to do too much work! Whether you want to join a group tour or book a customized excursion, here at Bein Harim we offer all kinds of solutions for the business or leisure traveler.Something else that’s critical to know is that Israel takes its religious Jewish holidays - including the weekly Sabbath - very seriously. Between Friday afternoon (about 2 hours before the sun goes down) until Saturday night (around an hour after the sun sets), all public transportation comes to a halt. This means that getting around is very difficult unless you are prepared to pay for costly private taxis. Of course. if you have a car, you can bypass these restrictions...Sure, we admit that driving in Israel can sometimes be challenging but you can do it. With some courage and patience, a GPS system (or Waze, which you can download on your smartphone) let’s take a closer look at the nuts and bolts of renting a car here...A car driver chatting with his pals in the middle of the street, Jaffa, Israel.Photo credit: ©Dmitry MishinCar Rental AgenciesThe good news is there’s plenty of choice in Israel. What’s the best car hire company to use in Israel? Well, there isn’t one in particular but car rental companies that we'd recommend include Eldan, Hertz, Budget, Shlomo Sixt, Tamir, and Avis. They all have branches dotted around the country - particularly in Jerusalem, Tel Aviv, and Haifa - as well as Ben Gurion Airport. One thing that is important to note is that it is not possible to drive a rental car from Israel to Jordan. This means that if you’re planning on taking a trip across the border to tour Petra, the best thing to do is to go with a guided tour. Logistics of Renting a Car in IsraelIn Israel, all road signs are written in three languages - Hebrew, Arabic, and English and, like most of Europe and North America, you drive on the right-hand side. We recommend that you download Waze - an app that was ‘born’ in Israel in fact - onto your smartphone before setting off. It can show you almost every road in Israel, as well as advise you on the fastest route, delay updates, and real-time traffic jams. Its smart technology can even help re-route you, once it knows that a traffic jam is building up, which means you’ll be directed away from crowded areas. This saves you time and frustration and makes for a much more pleasant driving experience!Traveling by car in Israel. Photo credit: ©Dmitry MishinParking in IsraelParking, in Israel, can be a headache, we won’t deny it, but the good news is that there are plenty of parking garages around. Another app we’d recommend downloading is called PinkPark. This clever little tool shows you available parking throughout the area you’re in - it’s especially popular in Tel Aviv (where it’s notoriously hard to park!). Working on the ‘shared economy’ basis, you can pay the owner of a spot (either at their home or workplace) and ‘sublet’ it by the hour. Since you’ve pre-booked it, that’s less time driving around or sitting in line, and more time to enjoy yourself! Parking garages (or lots) are plentiful in the big cities - whether they’re tucked away in side streets or in a mall/commercial building. In Tel Aviv, they are dotted all over the city - especially close to the beaches, the Carmel Market, Sarona (a popular nighttime area, with many cafes and restaurants inside converted Templar Houses), Rothschild Boulevard, and Jaffa.If it’s the summer, you might also want to consider an underground parking lot, since the heat can be relentless and your car will take the brunt of it. There are often digital signs at the entrance of these lots, to show you how many spaces are free on each level. However, please be aware that if you see a blue light flashing in a space, that means it's set aside for someone with a disabled badge.At the large lots, take your ticket when entering and keep it until you leave, at which point you can pay at self-service machines. At smaller lots, there will usually be a man in charge who you’ll pay a set fee to for the day/evening. He may also ask you to leave your keys behind whilst you go off, in case he has to move your car to let someone else through! Don’t worry - your keys will be safe!Red and white curb parking, Neve Tzedek, Tel Aviv, Israel.Photo credit: ©Dmitry MishinTips for the Car Renter in Israel1. Do your homework beforehand. Car rental in Israel does not have to cost an arm and a leg. Prices can start from as little as 260 NIS (80 USD) a day and if you shop around online, a few days before, you might even grab a bargain and find a cheap car rental in Israel. Take a look at a few websites and see what’s there - you can also call the representatives themselves - they will all speak good English, for sure! 2. Remember to pack your own license (or, if you have it, an international driver’s license). This is really a deal-breaker! In general, most car rental agencies will insist that you are over the age of 24 (or sometimes 25) - this is for insurance purposes.3. If you’re coming to Israel in the height of the summer or around the busy Jewish holidays (particularly Passover and Sukkot) we’d highly recommend that you plan ahead and book something before you arrive. At these times of the year, thousands of people arrive at Ben Gurion Airport each day and you don’t want to be disappointed when you get to the car rental desk and they’re all sold out! Speed Limits in IsraelAs with most countries in the West, Israel has speed limits and does enforce them. Here are a few of them, in kilometers. Driving in urban areas 50 kms per hourHighways 80 kms per hourHighway 1 (Tel Aviv to Jerusalem) 100 kms per hourHigh-speed highways 110-120 kms per hourSpeed limit road sign. Photo byTitus BlaironUnsplashRules for inside the car in Israel1. It is mandatory to wear a seat belt. If you have toddlers or babies, make sure to strap them in their booster seats.2. Talking on your cell phone (without using a hands-free device) is strictly forbidden. If you are seen doing so, you will in all probability be stopped and given a ticket. If that’s not enough of a deterrent, remember how dangerous it is!3. Turning right at a red light in Israel is not allowed.4. All rental cars are fitted with yellow reflective vests. So if you’re unlucky and you break down/have to pull over, put it on and make yourself visible at the side of the road.5. Between 1st November and March 31st, it is mandatory to have your headlights switched on, whether driving within cities or on highways.Traffic Lights in IsraelThe traffic light system in Israel is a little different to that which you will find in North America or Europe. The red, yellow, and green colors have the same meanings as you would expect but you may see them in an order that you find strange. Here’s an explanation: when the light is red you have to stop; when it is red and yellow together, this means: ’get ready to drive’. Once it’s green, and not before, you can set off. When you see the green light flashing, this means you need to begin slowing down and, quickly after, the light will turn yellow and then red once more.Car Parking in Acre, Israel.Photo credit: ©Dmitry MishinRight of Way in IsraelIn Israel, if you see a green light you automatically have the right of way. That means you do not need to wait for oncoming traffic before turning. Of course, you should still keep a careful eye out for pedestrians!Parking Rules and Regulations in IsraelLike every country, there are rules about parking in Israel, which are set out according to curb color, and here are some of them:Blue and White - You will see this primarily in areas in large cities, where paid parking is available. Either you can buy a ticket from an old-fashioned machine and then display it in your front window, put some coins into a nearby meter or use the ‘Pango’ app, which can easily be downloaded to any Smartphone.When you see blue and white curb parking, it’s also advisable to read the signs nearby carefully. Just because it;’s paid parking, that doesn’t mean it’s available 24 hours a day. For instance, it may be necessary to pay only up until 7 pm, it may be free on Shabbat or some of these spots might be reserved for local residents. Cars at the traffic lights, Jerusalem, Israel.Photo credit: ©Dmitry MishinRed and White -Simply put, red and white curb colors mean “do not park here under any circumstances.” If you do, you will be given a ticket (and officers patrol the major cities with vigilance) for at least 200 NIS (63 USD) and possibly more. Worst case scenario, your car will be towed away, which means a tiresome and costly visit to a compound to retrieve it. You have been warned!No Color -If you’re in a small town or community, it’s often possible to park more easily. This is because there’s not too much traffic and not many residents in the center. So if you see a curb without color, you’re good to pull in. Highway numbers in IsraelFinally, here are some of the major highways you might be using, when driving: No. 1 - the Dead Sea – Jerusalem – Tel-Aviv - Jordan Valley; No. 2 - Tel Aviv - Haifa; No. 3 - Ashkelon - Kirya Malakhi - Latrun - Modi’in; No. 4 - Rosh Hanikra – Ashkelon.Israel has one toll road, which is Route 6 (also known as the Trans-Israel or Yitzhak Rabin highway). This begins in the north of Israel, near the Lebanon border, and runs down to the center, to Tel Aviv and Rishon LeZion. If you want to use this road, factor in the cost before you set off - in general, from the far north to Tel Aviv will probably cost you around 32 NIS (10 USD) but do check first.Now buckle up, put some gas in the car and get going!Cars in the White City of Tel Aviv, Israel.Photo credit: ©Dmitry Mishin

Israel receives a great deal of tourism, which is no surprise - it has beaches, nature reserves, archaeological sites, endless places of worship, the exciting city of Tel Aviv and the spiritual mecca of Jerusalem. You can ski in the Golan Heights, dive with tropical fish in the Red Sea, explore Herodian ruins and Crusader towns in Caesarea and Acre and trek for hours in pastoral settings. And that’s before you’ve even got started on the hundreds of museums, art galleries and music venues that are dotted all over the country.The stunning landscape of Judean Desert, Israel. Photo credit: © ShutterstockWhat people often don’t think of, however, when talking about things to do in Israel is spending time in the Israel desert region. So is Israel mostly desert? Indeed, many people don’t actually realise that almost two-thirds of Israel’s landmass is actually desert - beginning in Beer Sheva. This southern city, just an hour and a half’s drive from Tel Aviv is a gateway to three of the deserts of Israel - the Negev, Arava and Zin which stretch all the way down to Israel’s most southern point - Eilat. The fourth, the Judean Desert, can be found east of Jerusalem, extending down to the Dead Sea.The early Zionists, who arrived in Israel at the turn of the 20th century had a vision - to transform the country and, in particular, the empty desert lands. “It is in the Negev that the creativity and pioneer vigour of Israel shall be tested,” said David Ben-Gurion, Israel's first prime minister. The deserts of Israel have indeed bloomed in the last half a century. Indeed, more and more Israeli families, today, are trading in city life for the Negev desert.Mamshit, the best restored ancient city in the Negev Desert, Israel. Photo credit: © Doron Nissim. Published with permission of the Israel Nature and Parks AuthorityStarry Nights, Rustic Zimmers and Plenty of Fresh AirThe fact is that the desert part of Israel has low levels of pollution, so not only will you be able to breathe well, you’ll also be able to see more stars at night than you ever imagined. Israel’s south is a paradise for wildlife too - yaelim (ibexes), camels, birds of prey...not to mention springs and oases you can stumble upon, after walking for hours in barren areas. Even better, when the rains have come in winter, the north of the country, the Negev, Arava and Zin areas remain pretty dry (unless you’re witness to some flash flooding which, although potentially dangerous, can also be fascinating to watch).The Negev, Arava and Zin areas are best visited between October/November and March/April before temperatures rise to uncomfortable levels. Days are warm and you may well end up with a suntan, although when the sun leaves the sky and night falls the temperatures drop dramatically, so arrive prepared (with plenty of warm clothes). In the last 20 years, more Israelis have moved south and the result is noticeable - small farms that sell local goats cheese, an artists' quarter in Mitzpe Ramon, with an artisan bakery next door, vineyards set up by enterprising folks, and all kinds of accommodation - from modern campsites and rustic zimmers to luxury hotels and glamping sites in the Israeli desert with every amenity you can think of, and then some! Tourism is booming and the desert is blooming!Shivta, an ancient city in the Negev Desert, Israel. Photo credit: © Doron Nissim. Published with permission of the Israel Nature and Parks AuthorityFrom canyons and craters to hiking trails and chocolate toursToday we’ll be looking at the first three, those covering much of the south of Israel. The fact is that if you’re prepared to get out of your comfort zone, you’ll be overwhelmed by what you see in this part of the country. Whether it’s exploring the astonishing Ein Avdat canyon, admiring the extraordinary views from atop the crater at Mitzpe Ramon and its surroundings, hiking in the desert,or trekking in Timna National Park, with its red-orange coloured rocks, you’ll have an experience many of your friends back home will envy. Finally, get ready for some adrenaline-rush activities too - whether it’s rappelling down the side of a cliff, taking a four-wheel-drive jeep tour, riding horseback, mountain biking, or running a desert marathon - an Israeli desert experience is a treat for the adventurer. And if you’ve got young kids, that’s no barrier either - they can enjoy petting alpacas and antelopes at different farms, taking ‘chocolate tours’ at the Yotvata kibbutz and sleeping in a Bedouin tent on a mattress. Let’s take a closer look at the famous deserts in Israel…Nubian ibexes on the edges of Makhtesh Ramon, Israel. Photo credit: © Jenny Ehrlich1. The Arava Desert, IsraelThe Arava desert, which is divided into the Central and Southern regions, is a valley that begins in the Dead Sea and stretches all the way down to Eilat, bordering Jordan to the east. It covers about 1500 square kilometres and, historically, was part of the ancient Incense Route.The Arava desert climate is, by any standards, harsh and unforgiving. It is extremely dry, with low annual rainfall (around 25-50 mm) and temperatures that can often soar to above 45 degrees in the height of summer. The Arava also suffers from a continuous lack of water - this is not just because of low levels of precipitation but also because there are very few permanent sources of water. Flash Floods, Sandstorms and Extreme Temperatures in the Arava DesertBecause there has been so little rainfall for tens of thousands of years, soil development and rock erosion are very slight. This means the saline content of the soil can be quite shallow and very high in saline. Temperatures also vary dramatically between day and night and summer and winter. As a result, conditions for growing are not optimum and flora and fauna face many challenges. Most plants live in the dry riverbeds (where occasionally there are flash floods) and also have to cope with the occasional sandstorms, which spread across the desert very quickly!Historically, the Arava is home to the remains of several Israeli fortresses at Ein Hatseva (‘Ein’ means ‘spring’ in Hebrew). This spring is a source of fresh water in the area and clearly the area had strategic significance since it was perched on a hill. Many fortresses were built in this area over around 1,000 years, serving as military centres for the area, as well as a spot through which caravans could pass. The Arava Desert landscape, Israel. Photo credit: © Jenny EhrlichNature reserves, solar power farms and birdwatching sites in the Arava DesertSomething else that makes the Arava interesting is that, notwithstanding its inhospitable arid climate, there are still many species that live and thrive in the desert - hyenas, reptiles, scorpions, spiders and an array of unusual birds. A great place to see them is at the Hai-Bar Yotvata Reserve, which is run by the Israel Nature and National Parks Protection Authority. The Hai Bar, about 35 km from Eilat, and located near Yotvata kibbutz, on salt flats, was established with the goal of returning to the Arava and Negev Desert animals that lived in biblical times. These ‘lost’ species are now being bred here and include gazelles, sand cats, ostriches, asses, leopards and wolves. Once grown, many are released into the desert.In terms of employment, many of the Arava’s residents today are involved with tourism and agriculture, using cutting-edge technology to make this barren part of the country fertile. Arava farmers today are involved in vegetable and fruit production, flower growing and all kinds of environmentally-friendly projects, including algae growing, solar power and fish farming.Indeed, many of the kibbutzim in the area - including Lotan, Yotvata, Ketura, Neot Smadar and Yahel - offer tourists the opportunity to look around their premises - between them, they have dairy farms, cafes and restaurants, a ‘chocolate milk’ tour and ice cream making workshops at Yotvata and birdwatching facilities at Lotan. Many of them also offer overnight accommodation in the form of lovely zimmers (rustic cabins, with modern touches, and a hearty Israeli breakfast included the following morning).A Desert Oasis and a Farm in the Arava Desert, Israel.Photo credit: © Jenny Ehrlich2. The Negev‎ Desert, IsraelThe Negev is a desert (and semi-desert) in the southern part of Israel, characterised by rocky brown mountains, craters and wadis (dry river beds that flourish for short periods after rainfall). The Hebrew root of the word comes from the term ‘dry’ and in Arabic, it is called ‘an-Naqab or an-Naqb’ meaning ‘mountain pass.’The Negev Desert is bordered on the west by Egypt and to the south the Arava. Geologists believe the area to be around 1.8 million years old, giving it the distinction of being the oldest discovered surface on earth. Broadly, it can be split into different parts - western and central, northern, a high plateau and then the Arava Valley. The northern part receives a fair amount of rain (around 300mm annually) and its soil is quite fertile, whilst the western part receives less - around 250 mm annually - and has soil that is more sandy. The central Negev receives only 200 mm of rain each year, and its soil is far more impervious. The high plateau - the Negev Heights - is between 370 metres and 520 metres above sea level and has extreme temperatures - freezing cold in the winter and extremely hot in the summer. The Arava, as discussed previously, is the most barren part of the country, with very little rainfall and scorching summer heat.Much like the Arava, there is not an enormous amount of vegetation in the Negev but, still, quite a lot of flora and fauna flourish. If visitors are lucky, they may catch a glimpse of Persian fallow deer, golden jackals, striped hyenas, Arabian oxen and for sure they will see Ibex, who number into their thousands in the area.Sha'alvim, The Negev Desert, Israel. Photo by Julia Gavrilenko on UnsplashThe Negev Desert in Ancient and Modern IsraelIn the Hebrew Bible, the Negev is mentioned in Genesis (Abraham lived there for some time) and Numbers, when Moses sent 12 scouts {spies) on a reconnaissance mission to the Promised Land. Later the northern part was inhabited by the Tribe of Judah and the southern part by the Tribe of Simeon, before being incorporated into the Kingdom of Solomon.Nomads lived in the Negev for thousands of years from the 10th century onwards - they were (and are) known as Bedouins, who were sheep and goat farmers who moved around constantly. Today they still form small communities and many of them offer traditional hospitality to tourists, in the form of visits that include a camel ride, dinner and overnight accommodation.As of 2020, around 700,000 people are living in the Negev desert and that figure is expected only to increase in the next 10 years, as more and more people make the move south - those with farming ambitions, entrepreneurs and people looking for a quieter way of life. Reflections of trees in a puddle, Sde Boker, the Negev desert, Israel. Photo by Vered Caspi on UnsplashTourism has boomed and, as a result, all over the Negev, it’s possible to find accommodation - camping sites, private cabins, Bedouin tents and upmarket hotels (Bereshit, in the Negev Hills, boasts luxurious accommodation overlooking the Ramon crater, some of the rooms even with their own private swimming pools).Moreover, today, some Israelis are taking a leaf out of the book of the Nabatean (an ancient Semitic people) who, years ago, developed techniques of terracing and conserving winter rains. Today, the Negev boasts wineries and goats cheese farms, as well as a popular artists' quarter in Mitzpe Ramon, where tourists can take ceramic classes. So between hiking the Shvil Israel, yoga retreats, high-octane sports activities (rappelling down cliffs and jeep tours) and watching meteor showers in the summer, the Negev really does have something for everyone and is the perfect getaway from Jerusalem or Tel Aviv, since many of its attractions are only 2 or 3 hours drive away, making a short break (or even a day trip) very easy.The Negev Mountain Reserve, Israel. Photo byItay PeeronUnsplash3. The Zin Desert, IsraelThe Zin Desert (also known as ‘the Wilderness of Zin’) refers to a geographic area somewhere between the Arava and the Negev - interpretations differ. Actually, the term used has two different meanings - one biblical and the other modern. Historically, the Zin Desert is mentioned in the Hebrew Bible - firstly in Numbers and then again in Psalms, as the ‘Wilderness of Kadesh’. English translations make a distinction between ‘zin’ and ‘sin’ and, indeed, the ‘Wilderness of Sin’ is mentioned in the Bible as a place close to Mount Sinai.Today, in Israel, the ‘Zin desert’ refers to a southern desert area made famous by the British Explorer Thomas Lawrence, better known as ‘Lawrence of Arabia’. A British archaeologist, diplomat and army officer, his writings about Arab culture and Palestine of the day made him famous (after all, who hasn’t heard of the 1962 film?). Indeed, it was in the Zin desert that he made an expedition and ultimately carried out a survey of the entire Negev desert.Ibex in the Negev Desert, Israel.Photo byAvi TheretonUnsplash‘Neve Tzin’ is also referred to today as an area close to Kibbutz Sde Boker and the Midreshet Ben Gurion (where Israel’s first Prime Minister, David Ben Gurion, is buried). Its crags and crevices overlook huge valleys, which are home to all kinds of birds including vultures, falcons and tawny owls - its clifftop walks offer stunning views and the immense wide spaces are the perfect place to take a moment and appreciate the emptiness. To sum up, as you can gather, Israel’s miracle in the desert is not only astonishing but something that, in all probability, will continue to grow. From desert eco-tours in Israel and fish farming to olive farms and vineyards, what was once a barren and inhospitable part of the country has been - and continues to be - transformed. Treat yourself to some time there - whether visiting an olive farm, hiking in Timna, visiting one of the many kibbutzim or camping out under the stars, you’ll come away longing for more.To visit Israeli deserts, join our private tours.Tel Beer Sheva Archeological Site, the Negev Desert, Israel.Photo credit: © Doron Nissim. Published with permission of the Israel Nature and Parks Authority

The great thing about traveling in Israel is that it’s a pretty small country, which means that whether you’ve got a few days or a couple of weeks at your disposal, you can still see a great deal. For many tourists, an ideal trip for them in Israel means combining relaxation with culture, beaches with mountains, sea with deserts, and the old with the new.Eilat at night, Israel.Photo credit: © Oksana MatsWell, you don’t get much older than the city of Jerusalem and you don't get much newer than the Red Sea resort town of Eilat! Jerusalem - holy to three major world religions, a city steeped in history and spirituality, a city renowned for its golden Dome of the Rock, ancient stone walls, and tiny, narrow alleyways...a city like no other.You can get lost in Jerusalem, and we don’t mean just in the backstreets of the Old City, but lost in yourself. With its religious landmarks (the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Al-Aqsa Mosque, and the Western Wall), its endless museums (of which Yad Vashem and the Israel Museum are must-visits), and its charming neighborhoods (the German Colony, Ein Kerem, Nachlaot near the thriving Mahane Yehuda Market) Jerusalem is fascinating, charming, and sometimes a little ‘intense.’Eilat, on the other hand, is anything but overwhelming. It’s the quintessential ‘fun’ city in Israel, with its sandy beaches, warm Red Sea waters, and endless leisure activities to keep you amused. Whether you want to snorkel or dive, sun yourself on Coral Beach, pet dolphins, rent a jet ski, or even take a day trip to Petra, the ancient Nabataean city in Jordan, and just two hours drive from Eilat. And at night, you’ll never be short of places to eat, drink and make merry. Israel’s most southern city really is the perfect place to kick back after a few long days in the capital. Let’s look at the different modes of transportation from Jerusalem to Eilat, and find out which one is best for you.Incense shop in the Old City of Jerusalem, Israel.Photo byChristian BurrionUnsplash1. How to Get from Jerusalem to Eilat by Bus from the Central Bus Station, Jaffa RoadTraveling from Jerusalem to Eilat by bus is a good option - it’s not expensive (public transport is subsidized in Israel), buses run regularly and the journey is pretty comfortable. You’ll always recognize the national bus service in Israel because their fleet has a distinctive green and white logo - they’re called Egged. The distance between Jerusalem and Eilat is 318 km (197 miles) and, without traffic, the journey takes just over four hours.There is a direct bus 444 from Jerusalem to Eilat - and it leaves from the third floor of the Jerusalem Central Bus Station. There are four buses a day and the bus makes several stops en route, at which you can get out and stretch your legs, take a bathroom break and get a cup of coffee. Tickets cost 82 NIS one way (approx. 25 USD).In terms of availability, you can definitely show up and just hope for the best - either buy a ticket from the counter in the station (all representatives will speak a certain level of English) or simply pay the bus driver in cash when you board. You can also use a Rav Kav card (a green public transport card easily purchased across Israel, onto which you can load credit).However, if you want to be assured of a seat (and the route certainly does get busy just before Jewish holidays and in the summer) you can also order your ticket online, via the Egged website, or by calling customer service on +972 3 694 8888 or *2800.Jerusalem Biblical Zoo, Israel.Photo credit: © Dmitry MishinSomething else - in case you can’t get a seat for the direct journey, it’s also reasonably convenient to take a bus from Jerusalem to Beer Sheva (Israel’s gateway city to the Negev desert) and from there change buses. It’s the same bus station, so you won’t have to make a big journey, and it’s full of cafes and bakeries, as well as shops and places to grab a falafel - arguably Israel’s favorite snack.Egged bus 470 leaves from Jerusalem to Beer Sheva at least once an hour and takes an hour and 32 minutes. Once you’ve arrived at your destination, you can pick up one of many buses running south - the 397 is direct and takes approximately 3 hours 30 minutes. The cost of the journey this way may be a few shekels more, but nothing significant, and it will give you the chance to see some breathtaking scenery between Mitzpe Ramon in the Negev Hills.Our tip: nearly all of the buses stop at Yotvata in the Arava desert, which is a kibbutz famous in Israel for its fabulous dairy products. There you can try one of their Italian ice creams (for those that prefer non-dairy, they also sell sorbets). They have a restaurant where you can buy lunch and also a shop, which sells olive oil and local Majool dates (a fantastic gift to take home to friends and family).Finally, if you want to break up your journey between Jerusalem and Eilat with some fun, then you can always take a bus to the Dead Sea and Masada - the 486 bus to Ein Gedi is ideal in this respect - and then continue on, a few hours later, or the following day (there are endless accommodation options in the Dead Sea, ranging from camping and kibbutz guest houses to fancy hotels on the edges of the sea itself).A Hotel Swimming Pool Area, Eilat, Israel.Photo credit: © Oksana MatsEgged Buses ScheduleThe Israeli workweek begins on Sunday and runs until Thursday (or in some cases Friday morning). In terms of reaching the Jerusalem Central Bus Station, it is located in the heart of the city, not far from the Mahane Yehuda market, on the Jaffa Road, next door to the Yitzhak Navon central railway station. It can most easily be reached by the Light Railway or different local buses. Inside the terminal are many stores and cafes, so you can begin your journey armed with water and snacks. Take the escalator up to the departure floor (clearly marked in English) and look for the electronic boards or ask a member of staff to direct you.On Fridays, the last bus from Jerusalem heading south will leave no later than 1-2 pm, since Shabbat (the Jewish sabbath) arrives at dusk and does not end until 25 hours later. It’s important to note that between Friday afternoon and Saturday evening, no public buses run in Israel, which means you will not be able to travel. So if you are planning on heading south on Friday, do check the timetable carefully and - just to be on the safe side - give customer service a call to confirm your departure times.All buses to Eilat arrive at the same bus station, which is in the city’s downtown area and from there it is a short walk or taxi ride to many of the hotels and the beach. If you are traveling on the border with Jordan and then continuing to Petra you can either take a private bus or the hourly bus that runs close by (you will have to walk the last 20 minutes, which could be tough in the summer months).Jet skiing in Eilat, Israel. Photo byShalev CohenonUnsplash2. How to Get from Jerusalem to Eilat by Plane from Ben Gurion AirportIf you aren’t a fan of long car journeys, you could consider this option, although bear in mind that you will have to first travel from Jerusalem to Ben Gurion Airport (which takes about 45 by bus or taxi). There are no direct flights from Jerusalem to Eilat. Internal flights from Ben Gurion Airport (Tel Aviv) to Ramon Airport in Eilat take just under an hour and are operated by Arkia and Israir, around every 2 hours. A flight will cost you around 350 NIS (110 USD) one way and it’s definitely recommended if you’ve just arrived in Israel after an exhausting long-haul flight. All flights from Ben Gurion airport arrive now in the new Ramon Airport, which is a 15-20 minutes drive from downtown Eilat and can be reached either by taxi (around 100 NIS / 32 USD) or public bus (4.50 NIS / 1.5 USD). 3. How to Get from Jerusalem to Eilat by TaxiThis is a costly option and if you are going to travel by taxi, we’d recommend booking one in advance (Israel’s Gett Taxi is a very popular app) or asking advice from your hotel concierge. A taxi from Jerusalem to Eilat and from Eilat to Jerusalem could run into the hundreds of dollars - as much as 1500 NIS (approximately 464 USD).Eilat coast, Israel. Photo byJosh AppelonUnsplash4.How to Get from Jerusalem to Eilat with a Private TransferWithout a doubt, the fastest and most convenient way to travel from Jerusalem to Eilat is to book a private transfer. This really is a ‘door to door service’ and gives you complete autonomy over when and where you want to be collected and dropped off. Make sure to use a trustworthy tour operator, who will be able to recommend an honest and reliable driver.The good thing about the private transfer option is that once you’ve agreed on the price quoted, and paid with your credit card, you don’t have to worry about another thing - the company will take care of every detail. And you can choose the itinerary - so if you want to break up the journey in the Dead Sea, Mitzpe Ramon or one of the kibbutzim in the Arava - where you can take tours - the choice is yours. Don’t be afraid to ask questions of your tour operator either and let them know about your specific needs beforehand. Here at Bein Harim, we’re always happy to help - contact us night or day and we’ll get back to you fast, with a competitive quote.5.Petra tour & Leisure Day in EilatThis is an ideal way to combine time in Eilat with a trip to the astonishing ‘lost city’ of the Nabateans - Petra. Start your Eilat-Petra vacation with a free day on the Red Sea, snorkeling, sunning yourself, hanging out with the dolphins at the Dolphin Reef, or enjoying a movie at the IMAX theatre. The next day, join your group, cross the border early in the morning and drive down to Wadi Musa, where you’ll explore Petra. With its red-colored rocks, astounding Treasury and Monastery, and rock architecture, it’s hard to be disappointed at this contemporary Wonder of the World. On the way back to Eilat, as long as there’s time, you’ll be given a quick peek at Aqaba too.Marina in Eilat, Israel. Photo byShalev CohenonUnsplash6.How to Get from Jerusalem to Eilat with a Rental CarRenting a car in Israel is quite easy and not that expensive if you feel like making the journey and being in the driving seat yourself. Jerusalem has quite a number of rental car businesses that will be happy to help you - they include Hertz, Shlomo Sixt, Avis, Budget Eldan, and Tamar. Car rental in Israel can be as cheap as 260 NIS (80 USD) a day so if there are 2 or more of you, it’s not a particularly costly option, particularly when you consider how much freedom it gives you - you can go at your own pace and really act spontaneously.You’ll need nothing more than your international driver’s license and a credit card to start the ball rolling and, if all goes well, you should be driving away within the hour. Alternatively, shop around online beforehand because there are some really good deals to be had if you do your homework. Many cars can be reserved online beforehand with nothing more than a few clicks.It is a 4-5-hours drive from Jerusalem to Eilat, using Route 90, depending on how fast you drive, and whether you make a stop along the way). As we’ve said above, there’s plenty to see along the way - the Dead Sea (the perfect place to have a float and slather yourself in black mud, Mitzpe Ramon (with its breathtaking views of the Ramon Crater and alpaca farm for the kids, and Timna Park (a wonderful place to take a hike) are all highly recommended by us.One thing we would say is that from Mitzpe Ramon to Eilat and the Red Sea, the road can be quite narrow and it does wind around for a while, so drive carefully. We’d actually recommend making this journey in the day if you haven't done it before - making it night could leave you sick or nervous (there are long stretches in the dark). Besides, if you travel in the day, you get to take in the astonishing desert scenery and watch the landscape change color as the day progresses.We hope this article gives you all of the information you need to make planning your vacation in Israel a little bit easier but should you have any questions, just reach out to us any time - we’re at +972 3 542 2000 and info@beinharim.co.il - so don’t hesitate to get in touch. Coral Beach, Eilat, Israel. Photo credit: © Doron Nissim. Published with permission of the Israel Nature and Parks Authority